Every number in a guide comes from the same data as our reports: the known-faults database, the Real MPG figures and the service intervals. Looking for the fault list itself? That is on the common problems pages, one per model, and each guide links to its own.
Abarth
2 guidesUsed Abarth 124 buying guide2016 to 2019The Abarth 124 Spider is worth buying from any year between 2016 and 2019 for its torque, steering and gearchange, but don't hand over money until you've checked you actually fit behind the wheel.Read the guide →Used Abarth 595 buying guide2008 to presentThe Abarth 595 to look for sits on 16-inch wheels and carries an Abarth dealer service record; avoid one with gaps in that history, as there's no known fault data to vouch for any car.Read the guide →
Alfa Romeo
9 guidesUsed Alfa Romeo 147 buying guide2001 to 2010The Alfa Romeo 147 to hunt for is a 1.9 JTDM diesel manual with a receipt for its latest cambelt and water pump, and it's the Selespeed semi-automatic you should leave on the forecourt.Read the guide →Used Alfa Romeo 156 buying guide1998 to 2005An Alfa Romeo 156 is worth having only with paperwork: buy one with receipts showing the timing belt, tensioners and water pump done on time, and skip any Twin Spark petrol that can't prove it.Read the guide →Used Alfa Romeo 159 buying guide2005 to 2011The Alfa Romeo 159 to go for is a 2.4 JTDm with receipts for its belt and water pump; skip a JTS petrol that rattles from cold and any 1.9 JTDm manual whining in fifth or sixth.Read the guide →Used Alfa Romeo 166 1999 buying guide1999 to 2005Pick a V6 Alfa Romeo 166 (1999 to 2005) with proof its belt, tensioners and water pump were changed in the last 48,000 miles or four years; the 2.0 Twin Spark's belt fails early and can wreck the engine.Read the guide →Used Alfa Romeo 4C buying guide2014 to 2019A used Alfa Romeo 4C gives you a quick 1750 turbo, rapid dual-clutch shifts and an exotic carbon tub, but its twitchy steering and harsh engine note are hard to live with, so take a long test drive first.Read the guide →Used Alfa Romeo Giulia buying guide2016 to presentA used Alfa Romeo Giulia is worth a look only with proof that its brake and clutch fluid recall and the dealer wiring updates were done; skip any car still showing electrical warnings or flattening its battery.Read the guide →Used Alfa Romeo Giulietta buying guide2010 to 2020A used Alfa Romeo Giulietta is worth buying only with receipts for the cambelt and every oil change; skip a 1.4 MultiAir that misfires, idles roughly or shows an engine warning light.Read the guide →Used Alfa Romeo MiTo buying guide2008 to 2018A used Alfa Romeo MiTo is worth it only with receipts for regular oil changes on the right grade, and don't take on a 1.4 MultiAir that misfires or a 1.4 TB 155 whose gearbox whines in fifth and sixth.Read the guide →Used Alfa Romeo Stelvio buying guide2017 to presentThere's too little on record to call the Alfa Romeo Stelvio a proven used buy, so go for one with a complete service history and brake work on file, and avoid any car showing brake or engine warning lights.Read the guide →
Aston Martin
2 guidesUsed Aston Martin DB9 buying guide2003 to 2016A used Aston Martin DB9 is best bought as an automatic with yearly oil changes and the recall work on file; skip a manual without a recent clutch, as they can be worn out in about 5,000 miles.Read the guide →Used Aston Martin V8 Vantage buying guide2005 to 2018A used Aston Martin V8 Vantage is worth it for the looks and that glorious V8 soundtrack, but don't buy one with a damp boot, bubbling paint or no proof its recall work was done.Read the guide →
Audi
13 guidesUsed Audi A1 buying guide2009 to presentAn Audi A1 1.2 TFSI manual that starts without a chain rattle and has a healthy clutch is the lesser risk; avoid the seven-speed S tronic, whose mechatronics unit fails from 27,000 miles.Read the guide →Used Audi A2 2000 buying guide2000 to 2005Buy a used Audi A2 2000 on body condition first: pick a straight, unmarked car with a sound anti-roll bar, avoiding patched aluminium panels or a damaged glass roof, as both need specialist repair or specially made parts.Read the guide →Used Audi A3 buying guide1996 to presentThe Audi A3 that's the lesser risk is a manual with receipts for clutch and flywheel work, while the 7-speed dry-clutch S tronic (DQ200) is the one to avoid, as its mechatronic unit fails between 30,000 and 80,000 miles.Read the guide →Used Audi A4 buying guide1995 to 2025Aim for a B9 Audi A4 built from 2015, avoid the Multitronic automatic on front-wheel-drive A4s up to 2012, and on a 2011 to 2015 car get proof the air-con heater fire recall was done.Read the guide →Used Audi A5 buying guide2007 to presentGo for an Audi A5 2.0 TDI with its cambelt done on time and no EGR or DPF warnings; avoid 2008 to 2015 1.8 and 2.0 TFSI petrols, which can burn oil heavily.Read the guide →Used Audi A6 buying guide1997 to 2025A 2011 to 2018 C7 Audi A6 2.0 TDI with cambelt receipts and no DPF warnings since its emissions fix is the lesser risk; avoid the 2004 to 2008 2.0 TDI PD, whose oil pump drive can wreck the engine.Read the guide →Used Audi Allroad 2000 buying guide2000 to presentThe original 2000 to 2006 Audi Allroad is only worth buying if its air suspension holds all four corners level at full height, because bladder failure is a known fault and each bladder comes built into its strut.Read the guide →Used Audi Q2 buying guide2016 to presentA used Audi Q2 has no known faults on record, which is a thin record rather than a clean one, so skip any S tronic or four-wheel-drive Q2 without proof its gearbox or Haldex oil has been changed.Read the guide →Used Audi Q3 buying guide2011 to presentThe used Audi Q3 to have is an F3 (2018 on) 35 mild hybrid petrol, tried from cold for hesitation; be wary of a 2013 or 2014 8U, where gearbox failures are a known fault.Read the guide →Used Audi Q5 buying guide2008 to presentAn Audi Q5 2.0 TDI is the lesser risk, as long as its emissions fix hasn't brought EGR trouble; treat any S tronic warily, since serviced ones have still failed, and insist on its oil change receipts.Read the guide →Used Audi Q7 buying guide2006 to presentThe used Audi Q7 to go for is one whose air suspension holds it level overnight and whose engine starts quietly from cold; avoid any 3.0 V6 TDI built up to 2018 that rattles from the back.Read the guide →Used Audi S1 buying guide2014 to 2018The Audi S1 earns its place with quattro grip on wet roads and a cabin that feels solid, but skip it if most of your driving's stop-start town traffic, where its bouncy ride wears thin.Read the guide →Used Audi TT buying guide1998 to 2023A manual Mk2 Audi TT (2006 to 2014) is the pick, though a 2008 to 2013 2.0 TFSI needs a rattle-free cold start; skip the seven-speed dry-clutch S tronic, which carries a known mechatronic fault.Read the guide →
Bentley
1 guideBMW
10 guidesUsed BMW 1 Series buying guide2004 to 2019An F20 BMW 1 Series with the B47 diesel, an automatic gearbox and proof of its EGR cooler recall is the lesser risk; avoid any with a cold-start rattle, as timing chains fail on the N43, N13, B38 and N47.Read the guide →Used BMW 2 Series buying guide2014 to 2021The BMW 2 Series to buy is an automatic with paperwork showing its EGR cooler recall or crankshaft bearing work was done, and the one to leave is any car that rattles or flags a drivetrain warning from cold.Read the guide →Used BMW 3 Series buying guide1994 to 2020A 2016 to 2018 F30 3 Series 2.0 diesel automatic with proof of its EGR cooler recall is the soundest used buy, while any N47 2.0 diesel, fitted from 2007 until 2015, is a timing chain gamble.Read the guide →Used BMW 4 Series buying guide2013 to presentThe BMW 4 Series to buy is a diesel with proof the EGR cooler recall's been done and its automatic gearbox fluid changed by 60,000 miles, while any early petrol that rattles from cold is one to leave.Read the guide →Used BMW 5 Series buying guide1996 to presentPick an F10 5 Series saloon (2010 to 2017) with the 3.0 six-cylinder diesel and proof of the EGR cooler recall, which covers diesels built from 2011, over a 2010 to 2014 520d, whose rear timing chain can snap unannounced.Read the guide →Used BMW i3 buying guide2013 to 2022The BMW i3 makes more sense as the pure electric version than the range extender, which carries only a tiny petrol tank and doesn't get on with the charge points at motorway services.Read the guide →Used BMW M3 buying guide2000 to 2018A used BMW M3 is worth having with paperwork for its known weak spots: on the 2007 to 2013 V8 car that means invoices for new rod bearings, and without them the whole engine's at risk.Read the guide →Used BMW X1 buying guide2009 to 2022The BMW X1 F48 (2015 to 2022) is the better used bet as long as its iDrive and sat nav behave; an E84 needs a clean timing chain record, whether it's a 2.0 diesel or a 20i or 28i petrol.Read the guide →Used BMW X5 buying guide2000 to presentA 2014 to 2018 BMW X5 diesel with proof its EGR cooler and airbag recalls were done is the safer buy, while the oil-burning 4.4 twin-turbo V8 from 2008 to 2013 is the one to avoid.Read the guide →Used BMW Z3 buying guide1997 to 2003The BMW Z3 worth having is a six-cylinder, the 2.8 or the 3.0 that replaced it in 2000, because the 1.9 fours are short of pace; whichever you find, check the roof doesn't leak.Read the guide →
Chevrolet
1 guideChrysler
1 guideCitroen
20 guidesUsed Citroen Berlingo buying guide1996 to presentThe Citroen Berlingo to go for is a 1.2 PureTech petrol with proof its wet belt was changed on time and its brake vacuum pump recall done; skip the 1.5 BlueHDi diesel, with its chain and AdBlue faults.Read the guide →Used Citroen Berlingo First buying guide2002 to 2011A Citroen Berlingo First is a roomy, comfortable small van, but on the 1.6 HDi diesel insist on paperwork for the turbo oil feed, since carbon blocks it on 2004 to 2011 16-valve engines and kills the turbo.Read the guide →Used Citroen C-Crosser buying guide2007 to 2012A used Citroen C-Crosser with the 2.2 diesel handles well and copes off road, but avoid one that's spent its life towing, because that wears out the clutch and dual-mass flywheel.Read the guide →Used Citroen C-ZERO buying guide2010 to 2018A used Citroen C-Zero is worth having only with a battery that still gives a full range and rust-free bonnet edges and rear wings, because a replacement pack was quoted at 18,000 to 22,610 euros.Read the guide →Used Citroen C1 buying guide2005 to 2022Go for a Mk1 Citroen C1 built from the 2009 facelift on, when a larger clutch went in, and avoid any car showing coolant loss, since water pumps fail on both the 1.0 petrol and the 1.4 HDi.Read the guide →Used Citroen C3 buying guide2002 to presentThe lesser-risk Citroen C3 is a 2016-on 1.2 PureTech petrol with proof its wet timing belt's been checked or changed and, if built before 2017, its Takata airbag recall done; avoid the 1.5 BlueHDi diesel.Read the guide →Used Citroen C3 Aircross buying guide2017 to 2024The lesser-risk Citroen C3 Aircross is the 1.2 PureTech petrol, and only with receipts for its wet belt; the 1.5 BlueHDi diesel carries two serious known faults, its AdBlue system and its camshaft chain.Read the guide →Used Citroen C3 Picasso buying guide2009 to 2017A used Citroen C3 Picasso is a roomy, undemanding small MPV, but the one to buy has proof its electric power steering motor's been replaced and a fusebox with no sign of washer fluid getting in.Read the guide →Used Citroen C3 Pluriel buying guide2003 to 2010The Citroen C3 Pluriel to buy is a manual whose roof opens, closes and seals properly; skip any car with broken roof tracks or damp carpets, because the roof is where these go wrong.Read the guide →Used Citroen C4 buying guide2004 to presentThe Citroen C4 to go for is a manual Mk2 (2010 to 2018) 1.6 HDi diesel with receipts for any turbo work and proof its airbag recalls were done; skip the EGS automated manual, whose clutch wears out early.Read the guide →Used Citroen C4 Cactus buying guide2014 to 2021Go for a Citroen C4 Cactus 1.2 PureTech or 1.6 BlueHDi with a manual gearbox and proof the wet belt or AdBlue system has been seen to, and avoid the 1.5 BlueHDi, which carries two serious known faults.Read the guide →Used Citroen C4 Grand Picasso buying guide2014 to 2018The Citroen C4 Grand Picasso is a roomy, comfortable family car: go for a 1.6 BlueHDi diesel with a bill for its replaced AdBlue tank and pump, and steer clear of the 1.2 PureTech petrol.Read the guide →Used Citroen C4 Picasso buying guide2004 to 2022A 2014 to 2022 Citroen C4 Picasso is the safer era, but no engine's a clean pick, so buy on paperwork (AdBlue repair bills on a diesel, belt and software records on a PureTech) and skip the jerky automated manual.Read the guide →Used Citroen C6 buying guide2005 to 2012The Citroen C6 is worth buying for its smooth, very quiet ride as long as a C6 specialist looks after its hydraulics, but avoid one whose worn wishbone bushes haven't been dealt with.Read the guide →Used Citroen C8 buying guide2003 to 2010A Citroen C8 is only worth buying with receipts showing the timing belt, its pulley and the water pump were renewed together; a 2002 to 2007 2.2 HDi without that paperwork risks a wrecked engine.Read the guide →Used Citroen DS4 buying guide2011 to 2018The 2.0 HDi diesel on 17-inch wheels is the lesser-risk used Citroen DS4, though little's on record for it either way, while the 1.6 THP petrol's timing chain can stretch and jump between 40,000 and 80,000 miles.Read the guide →Used Citroen Nemo buying guide2009 to 2015The Citroen Nemo to look for is one with ESP fitted, since a car without it was judged prone to rolling over on a tight bend in a comparison test; worn front suspension top bearings are the thing to check.Read the guide →Used Citroen Synergie buying guide1995 to 2002The Citroen Synergie worth having is the 2.0 HDi diesel from autumn 1999, but only one with receipts showing its crankshaft damper pulley was replaced alongside the timing belt, because a failed pulley can wreck the engine.Read the guide →Used Citroen Xsara buying guide1997 to 2006A used Citroen Xsara is worth buying with a manual gearbox, and a 2.0 HDi's fine once its clutch and crank pulley check out, but skip the AL4 automatic, whose worn solenoids leave it thumping or stuck in limp mode.Read the guide →Used Citroen Xsara Picasso buying guide2000 to 2010The Citroen Xsara Picasso to go for is a manual 2.0 HDi, the lesser risk of the diesels provided it's on the Bosch injection system rather than the Siemens one that drew complaints, while the AL4 automatic is best avoided.Read the guide →
Dacia
2 guidesUsed Dacia Duster buying guide2010 to 2024Go for a Dacia Duster 1.5 dCi manual with cambelt receipts and no flashing glow plug light, and check 2012 to 2014 cars hard for rust; avoid the 1.2 TCe petrol, which burns oil.Read the guide →Used Dacia Logan MCV buying guide2013 to 2019The Dacia Logan MCV has no known faults on record, which is thin evidence, not a clean bill; the 1.5 dCi 90 suits long runs, but two owners reported gearchange trouble, so try every gear.Read the guide →
Daewoo
2 guidesUsed Daewoo Lanos buying guide1997 to 2002The Daewoo Lanos 1.4 is the one to look at, but only because the running problems flagged on this car are on the 1.6; nothing shows the 1.4 is sound, so give either a long drive from cold.Read the guide →Used Daewoo Tacuma buying guide2000 to 2004The Daewoo Tacuma to go for is one whose service book has no gap around 2002 and shows both recalls done; the 1.6 is the one engine flagged for ECU faults that scarce parts make hard to fix.Read the guide →
DS
3 guidesUsed DS 3 buying guide2010 to 2019Go for a DS 3 with the non-turbo 1.6 VTi petrol and a dry fusebox, because the 1.6 THP turbo has repeated owner reports of timing chains stretching or failing between 30,000 and 57,000 miles.Read the guide →Used DS 5 buying guide2012 to 2018A used DS 5 makes most sense as a 2015 or later car, when the ride and handling were improved, and the one to avoid is an early car on 19-inch wheels, where the ride's at its worst.Read the guide →Used DS 7 Crossback buying guide2017 to 2025A used DS 7 Crossback is worth a look for its roomy cabin, but check its history hard because little's on record, and don't choose one just for Active Scan Suspension when taller tyres ride as well.Read the guide →
Ferrari
2 guidesUsed Ferrari 456 buying guide1993 to 2003A used Ferrari 456 is worth having with the six-speed manual gearbox and a history you can trace from new; any car whose past doesn't add up, or that's come from abroad without clear papers, isn't worth the risk.Read the guide →Used Ferrari 550 Maranello buying guide1996 to 2002A used Ferrari 550 Maranello is worth buying only with invoices proving its recall work was done, from the steering rack to the fuel lines, and never with unexplained accident damage or a hazy import history.Read the guide →
Fiat
15 guidesUsed Fiat 124 buying guide2016 to 2018A used Fiat 124 Spider from 2016 to 2018 gives you sharp handling and a cabin that's well put together, but skip it if you need luggage room, because the boot's tiny.Read the guide →Used Fiat 500 buying guide2007 to presentThe Fiat 500 to hunt down is a 1.2 petrol from 2010 on with cambelt receipts and a gearbox that shifts cleanly, while a 1.3 MultiJet diesel that's lived on short town trips is best left alone.Read the guide →Used Fiat 500C buying guide2009 to 2025Go for a used Fiat 500C with the 1.2 or 1.4 petrol and a manual gearbox; the TwinAir has known timing chain, oil cooler and flywheel failures, and the 1.3 MultiJet diesel dilutes its oil.Read the guide →Used Fiat 500L buying guide2013 to 2023The Fiat 500L to go for is the 1.6 diesel, which copes best with a full load, with proof the 2017 heater wiring recall was done; avoid the 1.3 MultiJet diesel, whose particulate filter has a serious known fault.Read the guide →Used Fiat 500X buying guide2015 to 2024The Fiat 500X is a comfortable crossover with little on record either way, so buy one with the rear seat latch recall done and skip any car that's been back to the dealer repeatedly for electronic faults.Read the guide →Used FIAT Bravo/Brava buying guide1995 to 2002A used Fiat Bravo/Brava with a 1.4, 1.6 or 1.9 diesel is the lesser risk if its timing belt and plastic tensioner were renewed within three years; avoid the 2.0 HGT, whose belt change is an engine-out job.Read the guide →Used Fiat Croma buying guide2005 to 2007A used Fiat Croma is a roomy diesel hatchback worth a look if there's proof the rear suspension was reset, but avoid one with a heater fan that's playing up, since the motor can short out and start a fire.Read the guide →Used Fiat Grande Punto buying guide2006 to 2010Buy a Fiat Grande Punto with light, even steering and proof its recalls were done, and think twice about a 1.3 MultiJet diesel, as its particulate filter regeneration can push the oil past the maximum mark, especially in town.Read the guide →Used FIAT Marea buying guide1997 to 2002A used Fiat Marea is only worth buying with written proof of a recent timing belt, tensioner and water pump change; the 1.6 and 1.8 petrols are the lesser risk, as five-cylinder belt changes mean taking the engine out.Read the guide →Used Fiat Panda buying guide2003 to presentThe Fiat Panda to buy is a 1.2 petrol with a manual gearbox, and the 0.9 TwinAir is the one to avoid, given its known timing chain, oil cooler and flywheel failures.Read the guide →Used Fiat Punto buying guide1999 to 2018The Fiat Punto worth buying is a 2009 to 2018 Type 199 with a manual gearbox and a petrol engine; steer clear of the Dualogic automated manual, whose hydraulic actuator is its known weak point.Read the guide →Used Fiat Qubo buying guide2008 to presentA Fiat Qubo 1.3 MultiJet diesel is only worth having if it's done regular longer runs, with the dipstick below maximum and proof of the 2015 injector campaign, because its particulate filter regeneration struggles on short town trips.Read the guide →Used Fiat Sedici buying guide2006 to 2013The Fiat Sedici to pick is the 1.6 petrol, not because its record is clean but because little is on record about it, while the 1.9 diesel has reported EGR clogging, swirl flap failures, dead alternators, timing belts and flywheels.Read the guide →Used Fiat Stilo buying guide2002 to 2007A used Fiat Stilo is a gamble on a car with a long list of reported faults, so only consider one with proof of its recall work, a gearbox that shifts cleanly, cold air-con and a dry boot.Read the guide →Used Fiat Tipo buying guide2016 to 2024A diesel Fiat Tipo is the one to pick for its economy, but don't buy one the 2017 driver airbag recall covers without proof the work's done, and remember there's little fault data on record.Read the guide →
Ford
17 guidesUsed Ford B-Max buying guide2011 to 2017A Ford B-MAX is worth having as a manual rather than the Powershift automatic, whose dry clutch judders in report after report, but a 1.0 EcoBoost's wet belt and degas hose can both wreck its engine.Read the guide →Used Ford C-Max buying guide2003 to 2019A Ford C-Max 1.6 TDCi manual with a clean injector record and light, steady steering is the lesser risk; steer clear of the 1.0 EcoBoost, whose clutch, wet belt and degas hose all carry serious known faults.Read the guide →Used Ford Cougar buying guide1998 to 2000A used Ford Cougar is the lesser gamble as a 2.0 manual; the 2,544cc V6 carries the one serious engine warning, an oil pump fault that can froth the oil and starve the top of the engine.Read the guide →Used Ford EcoSport buying guide2014 to 2023A Ford EcoSport is best bought as a manual with belt paperwork and a steady coolant level, since the 1.0 EcoBoost's wet belt and degas hose can both wreck it; leave any Powershift automatic that shudders.Read the guide →Used Ford Edge buying guide2015 to 2019A Ford Edge 2.0 TDCi manual is the lesser risk, though little's on record about it; don't take a Powershift automatic without invoices for fluid and filter changes every 3 years or roughly 38,000 miles.Read the guide →Used Ford Fiesta buying guide1995 to presentA manual petrol Ford Fiesta Mk7 or Mk8 with receipts for cambelt, spark plug and degas hose work is the one to buy; steer clear of the 2012 to 2018 Powershift automatic, whose dry clutch judders and fails.Read the guide →Used Ford Focus buying guide1998 to 2025A Mk3 Ford Focus with the 1.6 Ti-VCT petrol and a manual gearbox is the lesser risk once you've checked the steering assist, while the dry-clutch Powershift automatic on 2011 to 2018 petrols is best avoided.Read the guide →Used Ford Focus Coupe-Cabriolet buying guide2006 to 2011A Ford Focus Coupe-Cabriolet is only worth buying once you've watched its folding roof open and close cleanly and found a dry boot, because leaking seals and failing roof hydraulics are a known fault across its 2006 to 2011 run.Read the guide →Used Ford Fusion buying guide2002 to 2012A manual 1.25 or 1.4 petrol Ford Fusion is the lesser risk, since both diesels carry serious injector or turbo faults; skip the 1.4 Durashift automated manual, whose control unit and actuators give up after four or five years.Read the guide →Used Ford Kuga buying guide2008 to presentThe Ford Kuga to pick is a Mk2 2.0 TDCi manual, with the overheating recall done if it's a 2014 or 2015 car; skip any Powershift automatic without proof of fluid and filter changes every 37,500 miles.Read the guide →Used Ford Mondeo buying guide1996 to presentA Ford Mondeo Mk4 2.0 TDCi manual is the one to hunt down, with a healthy clutch and flywheel and proof its driver's airbag was replaced under recall; skip a Powershift automatic without fluid changes every 3 years.Read the guide →Used Ford Ranger buying guide2004 to presentThe Ford Ranger to go for is a T6 with a sound chassis and receipts for every oil change, because the 2.2 and 3.2 TDCi share an oil pump that can lose its prime and wreck the engine.Read the guide →Used Ford StreetKa buying guide2003 to 2005A used Ford StreetKa is worth buying only once you've seen solid sills, rear quarters and front subframe underneath it; any car showing rot or suspiciously fresh underseal in those spots is the one to leave.Read the guide →Used Ford Tourneo Connect buying guide2014 to 2023A used Ford Tourneo Connect makes most sense as a 1.5 TDCi diesel; the 1.0 EcoBoost petrol's coolant degas hose can snap and warp the head, and its wet belt can break up and starve it of oil.Read the guide →Used Ford Tourneo Courier buying guide2015 to 2023The Ford Tourneo Courier is roomy and easy to drive, so pick one in the better-finished Tourneo Courier trim over the plain Kombi, and try the 1.0 EcoBoost fully loaded before you commit.Read the guide →Used Ford Transit Connect buying guide2002 to 2022A used Ford Transit Connect 1.8 TDCi is only worth having with bills proving its high-pressure fuel pump has been replaced, because that pump's a known failure; without that paperwork, leave it for someone else.Read the guide →Used Ford Transit Custom buying guide2012 to 2024A used Ford Transit Custom is a refined van, but neither diesel is a safe bet: only buy a 2.0 EcoBlue with proof its oil-bathed belt and injectors were dealt with, and pass on any 2.2 TDCi that knocks.Read the guide →
Honda
8 guidesUsed Honda Accord buying guide1998 to presentThe petrol 2.4 i-VTEC Honda Accord is the pick of either generation, provided a cold start's free of VTC rattle, but steer clear of the 7th-generation 2.2 i-CTDi diesel, whose exhaust manifold can crack and leak fumes inside.Read the guide →Used Honda Civic buying guide1994 to presentA Honda Civic 1.8 i-VTEC petrol from 2012 to 2016 or a 1.5 VTEC Turbo from 2017 is the pick, provided a 2012 car's handbrake holds; avoid the 2006 to 2011 i-SHIFT automated manual.Read the guide →Used Honda CR-V buying guide1997 to 2023Go for a 2012 to 2018 Honda CR-V Mk4 with the 2.0 i-VTEC petrol, checking oil use and rear diff noise, and avoid the 1.6 i-DTEC diesel, whose clutch, DPF and fuel system have known faults.Read the guide →Used Honda FR-V buying guide2004 to 2009The Honda FR-V to buy is the 2.0 petrol, a clear step up from the 1.7; pass on a 2.2 i-CTDi diesel, whose exhaust manifold can crack and leak fumes into the cabin and whose turbo bearings have failed.Read the guide →Used Honda Jazz buying guide2001 to presentThe Honda Jazz to buy has a manual gearbox that runs silently or a CVT with fluid-change receipts, plus rust-free rear arches on a Mk1 (2002 to 2008); avoid the i-SHIFT automated manual, whose faults can leave it stranded.Read the guide →Used Honda Jazz Hybrid buying guide2011 to 2015Any Honda Jazz Hybrid from 2011 to 2015 is worth a look, since it drives just like the ordinary Jazz and no year stands out as worse, but pass on one wearing a tow bar.Read the guide →Used Honda Prelude buying guide1996 to 2000A manual Honda Prelude (1996 to 2000) with clean oil and a full Honda dealer history is the one to find; the automatic, especially with the 2.2 engine, has a record of gearbox failures.Read the guide →Used Honda s2000 buying guide1999 to 2009Pick a Honda S2000 built from February 2002 onwards, with the glass rear screen, and don't take on a 1999 or 2000 car unless its seatbelt recall work is proven.Read the guide →
Hyundai
11 guidesUsed Hyundai Getz buying guide2002 to 2008The Hyundai Getz is best as a 1.1 petrol, the frugal one where the 1.3 drew complaints of thirst, but check the 1.1 had its crankshaft pulley replaced and listen for rattling rear drum brakes.Read the guide →Used Hyundai i10 buying guide2008 to presentA 2nd Gen Hyundai i10 (2014 to 2019) is the better buy, provided its rear brake calipers aren't seizing, while a 1st Gen 1.1 or 1.2 manual with a heavy or juddering clutch is the one to avoid.Read the guide →Used Hyundai i20 buying guide2009 to presentGo for a petrol Hyundai i20, either a manual with bills for a new clutch and gearbox seals or a Mk1 with the 4-speed torque converter automatic, but avoid 2015-on cars with the seven-speed dual-clutch gearbox.Read the guide →Used Hyundai i30 buying guide2007 to presentThe lesser-risk Hyundai i30 is a manual 1.4 petrol with any steering recall done and a clutch that bites cleanly, but don't buy a 1.6 GDi or 1.6 CRDi without proof of frequent oil changes.Read the guide →Used Hyundai i40 buying guide2011 to presentA manual Hyundai i40 1.6 or 1.7 CRDi with every oil change stamped in its book is the lesser risk; don't touch a diesel with gaps in its servicing or a whining turbo, because oil-starved turbos are a known fault.Read the guide →Used Hyundai Ioniq buying guide2016 to 2022A used Hyundai Ioniq comes as a hybrid, plug-in hybrid or full electric car, so match it to your driving, but don't buy the hybrid without testing its ride and its pace outside sport mode.Read the guide →Used Hyundai ix20 buying guide2010 to 2018Go for a Hyundai ix20 1.6 with the original four-speed automatic and its handy gearbox dipstick, but steer clear of any 1.6 CRDi diesel without proof of regular oil changes, since its turbo can starve and fail.Read the guide →Used Hyundai ix35 buying guide2009 to 2018The Hyundai ix35 to go for is a 2.0 CRDi with a full service history, the lesser risk even though owners report injector and EGR trouble on it; avoid a 1.6 GDi or 1.7 CRDi with gaps in its servicing.Read the guide →Used Hyundai Kona buying guide2017 to 2023The Hyundai Kona to go for is the 1.0 T-GDi petrol, and any 1.6 with the seven-speed dual-clutch automatic needs a slow, cold drive in traffic first, because that gearbox's known weakness is judder and hesitation.Read the guide →Used Hyundai Santa Fe buying guide2001 to 2024A Hyundai Santa Fe 2.2 CRDi is worth buying in either generation only with receipts for its cooling, fuel and 4WD work, as the diesel and the DM's driveline carry serious known faults; skip any that rattle or lose coolant.Read the guide →Used Hyundai Tucson buying guide2004 to 2021A third generation Hyundai Tucson from 2015 on is the pick, but only with proof of regular oil changes, since its engines carry serious known faults; skip the 1.7 CRDi with the 7-speed DCT.Read the guide →
Isuzu
1 guideJaguar
9 guidesUsed Jaguar F-Pace buying guide2016 to 2024The used Jaguar F-Pace to go for has proof of oil changes every 10,000 miles if it's a 2.0 Ingenium diesel; skip one that's lived on short trips, as fuel-thinned oil can wear its rear timing chain.Read the guide →Used Jaguar F-Type buying guide2013 to presentWith so little on record, a Jaguar F-Type is bought car by car: choose one that starts cleanly from cold and runs smoothly, and pass on any that misfires, as engine running problems top the owners' reports.Read the guide →Used Jaguar S-Type buying guide1999 to 2007The Jaguar S-Type to go for is a 2.5 or 3.0 V6 petrol, ideally a manual, or a six-speed automatic only with its software updates on paper; skip a 2.7 diesel that's lived on short trips.Read the guide →Used Jaguar X-Type buying guide2001 to 2009The Jaguar X-Type worth having is a 2.5 V6 manual from before 2008 with sills that are still solid; don't touch one whose sills are soft or bubbling behind the plastic trims, whatever the engine.Read the guide →Used Jaguar XE buying guide2015 to 2024A petrol Jaguar XE with its recalls done is the lower-risk buy; a 2015 to 2019 2.0 Ingenium diesel that's lived on short trips or gone long between oil changes risks timing chain failure.Read the guide →Used Jaguar XF buying guide2007 to presentGo for a Jaguar XF 2.2 diesel from 2011 on with its oil level spot on, since the 2.7 and 3.0 V6 diesels carry a serious known fault where a crankshaft bearing spins and the crank snaps.Read the guide →Used Jaguar XJ buying guide2003 to 2019The used Jaguar XJ to hunt for is a 5.0 V8 petrol with a stamped service book, since the 2.7 and 3.0 V6 diesels carry a known risk of spun crank bearings and a snapped crankshaft, right through to 2019.Read the guide →Used Jaguar XJ8 and XJR8 buying guide1997 to 2003Go for a Jaguar XJ8 or XJR8 built from September 2000, or an earlier one with a later cast iron lined replacement engine, and skip any 1997 to 1999 car still running its original V8.Read the guide →Used XJ6, XJ8, XJR buying guide2003 to presentA used Jaguar XJ6, XJ8, XJR from 2003 on makes most sense with a petrol V8 such as the 3.5, while the 2.7 diesel's hot-running turbos and clogging particulate filter are the thing to avoid.Read the guide →
Kia
8 guidesUsed Kia Cee'd Sportswagon buying guide2012 to 2018The Kia Cee'd Sportswagon to buy is a manual with every oil change on record; skip one with servicing gaps, since the 1.6 GDi chain tensioner hates dirty oil and the CRDi turbo fails when oil changes are skipped.Read the guide →Used Kia Niro buying guide2016 to 2022Any used Kia Niro hybrid can be a good buy, but on one built from late 2016 to September 2017, get proof both fire-risk recalls were done: the dual-clutch actuator oil leak and the power relay overheating.Read the guide →Used Kia Optima buying guide2010 to 2019Buy a Kia Optima with the paperwork its known faults call for: oil-change receipts on a CRDi diesel, whose turbo can fail when carbon blocks its oil feed, and proof of the rod-bearing recall on a 2016 to 2018 petrol.Read the guide →Used Kia Picanto buying guide2004 to presentThe 3rd Gen Kia Picanto (2017 on) is the safer used buy, as long as a 2020 to 2023 car has had its fuel pipe recall done, while a 1st Gen 1.0 or 1.1 can snap its crankshaft pulley bolt.Read the guide →Used Kia Sorento buying guide2003 to 2022The 2015 to 2020 Kia Sorento is the lesser risk once a diesel's heater fire recall is done, but avoid a 2003 to 2009 2.5 CRDi that cuts out, a sign its fuel tank lining's breaking up.Read the guide →Used KIA Sorento SUV 2003 buying guide2003 to presentThe first-generation Kia Sorento (2003 to 2009) is a strong tow car, best as a five-speed automatic from March 2004, but skip any 2.5 CRDi diesel that's cut out, since its fuel tank lining can break up.Read the guide →Used Kia Sportage buying guide1995 to presentThe Kia Sportage to shortlist is a 2.0 CRDi diesel manual from 2010 on, while the 2010 to 2018 1.6 GDi petrol is the one to skip, as its timing chain tensioner can fail from 60,000 miles.Read the guide →Used Kia Venga buying guide2010 to 2019A manual Kia Venga with a sound fuel tank is the one to buy, and only take a 1.6 CRDi diesel with receipts for every oil change, because skipped services can starve its turbo of oil until it fails.Read the guide →
Land Rover
10 guidesUsed Land Rover Defender buying guide1983 to 2016A used Land Rover Defender lives or dies on its steel, so buy the one with the soundest chassis and bulkhead and judge the engine second, and don't touch one with a rotten rear crossmember, outriggers or footwells.Read the guide →Used Land Rover Discovery buying guide1998 to presentAmong Land Rover Discovery diesels, the 2017-on 2.0 is the lesser risk, though fuel can thin its oil and wear the chain; avoid the 2009 to 2017 3.0 V6 diesel, whose crankshaft can snap, often with no warning.Read the guide →Used Land Rover Discovery 2 buying guide2002 to 2004A Land Rover Discovery 2 TD5 is worth buying only with a solid rear chassis and proof the 2004 fuel line and ABS recall work was done; skip any car with oil in its coolant.Read the guide →Used Land Rover Discovery Sport buying guide2015 to presentThe Land Rover Discovery Sport to go for is a petrol that pulls away cleanly on the test drive, while the 2.0 Ingenium diesel, which dilutes its oil with diesel on cars up to 2020, is the one to avoid.Read the guide →Used Land Rover Freelander buying guide1997 to 2006Go for a Land Rover Freelander TD4 diesel with receipts for drivetrain work, and give the early 1.8 petrol a miss, because coolant leaks wreck its head gasket and repaired engines have failed again.Read the guide →Used Land Rover Freelander 2 buying guide2006 to 2015The Land Rover Freelander 2 to look for is a 2.2 diesel built after 2008 with a quiet rear axle and Haldex service receipts; avoid 2006 to 2008 diesels, the cars behind the snapped camshaft reports.Read the guide →Used Land Rover Range Rover buying guide1994 to presentThe Land Rover Range Rover to hunt for is a 2007 to 2012 L322 TDV8 diesel with receipts for air suspension work; don't touch a 2002 to 2006 car without proof its front diff and driveshaft have been replaced.Read the guide →Used Land Rover Range Rover Evoque buying guide2011 to presentThe Range Rover Evoque is best bought as a 2.2 SD4 with receipts for EGR cooler and steering rack work, since the 2.0 Ingenium diesel that replaced it in 2015 has a known fault that washes diesel into its oil.Read the guide →Used Land Rover Range Rover Sport buying guide2005 to 2022The used Range Rover Sport that's the lesser gamble is a first-generation 3.6 TDV8, which no known engine fault names; avoid any 3.0 TDV6 or SDV6 from 2009 to 2017, whose crankshaft can snap, often with no warning light.Read the guide →Used Land Rover Range Rover Velar buying guide2017 to presentA used Range Rover Velar makes most sense with the four-cylinder 2.0 petrol and an insurance quote already in hand, since keyless relay theft leaves some uninsurable; treat the 2.0 diesel as a risk to check.Read the guide →
Lexus
6 guidesUsed Lexus IS buying guide1999 to 2020The used Lexus IS to go for is a 2nd Gen IS250 petrol automatic that idles smoothly from cold, as its V6 can clog its intake valves with carbon; skip the IS220d diesel and its known head gasket failure.Read the guide →Used Lexus IS200 buying guide1999 to 2005A Lexus IS200 with the six-speed manual suits its rev-hungry straight six best, but don't buy one whose clutch judders, as replacement clutches haven't cured it and it can lead to gearbox trouble.Read the guide →Used Lexus NX buying guide2014 to 2021A used Lexus NX from any year between 2014 and 2021 is a reasonable buy if the parking brake recall's been done; the catch is the CVT gearbox, which drones at high revs whenever you accelerate hard.Read the guide →Used Lexus RC buying guide2014 to presentThe Lexus RC 300h hybrid is the easier used buy, smooth and comfortable day to day, while the RC F V8 needs a proper test drive first because its automatic can feel hesitant and short on mid-range pull.Read the guide →Used Lexus RX buying guide2003 to 2022A used Lexus RX 450h makes far more sense than the thirsty, harsh-sounding 200t, but ask for proof the 2020 fuel pump recall was done on a 2015 to 2019 car, as the old pump can stall the engine.Read the guide →Used Lexus RX400h buying guide2005 to 2009A used Lexus RX400h is worth having when there's proof the hybrid inverter recall was done and the hybrid battery compartment is dry; pass on any car that can't show that recall work.Read the guide →
Lotus
1 guideMaserati
2 guidesUsed Maserati 3200GT buying guide2000 to 2002A Maserati 3200GT with the four-speed automatic is the steadier buy, as that dated box is reliable, but don't touch a car built in 1999 or 2000 without proof its brake fluid recall was done.Read the guide →Used Maserati Levante buying guide2016 to 2024The Maserati Levante is a stylish, comfortable SUV on air suspension, but there's no fault record to favour any year, so judge each car on its own and try the clunky gear selector before committing.Read the guide →
Mazda
7 guidesUsed Mazda 5 buying guide2005 to 2015The Mazda 5 is a practical sliding-door family car, and a 2010 to 2015 one on 16-inch wheels is the easier pick; treat any diesel warily, since a DPF stuck regenerating washes fuel into its oil.Read the guide →Used Mazda CX-3 buying guide2015 to 2019A used Mazda CX-3 makes most sense as the 2.0 SkyActiv-G petrol, the lesser risk on a thin record, as long as its air con blows cold; the 1.5 diesel has had injector and DPF trouble on young cars.Read the guide →Used Mazda CX-5 buying guide2012 to presentThe Mazda CX-5 to buy is the 2.0 petrol, which none of the known engine faults name; the 2.2 SkyActiv-D diesel carries serious camshaft and oil faults on 2012 to 2016 cars, so don't buy any diesel without recall paperwork.Read the guide →Used Mazda CX-7 buying guide2007 to 2012Mazda CX-7 buyers should treat the 2009 to 2012 2.2 diesel with real suspicion, since injector seal leaks have seized engines; the 2.3 turbo petrol avoids that fault, though there's little else on record about it.Read the guide →Used Mazda Mazda3 buying guide2004 to presentA petrol Mazda3 is the lesser risk, though test its gearbox and clutch properly, while the 2.2 SkyActiv-D diesel is the one to leave alone, as it can dilute its oil with fuel and wear its camshaft.Read the guide →Used Mazda Mazda6 buying guide2002 to 2022A Mazda6 from 2012 on with the 2.0 SkyActiv-G petrol is the lesser risk; steer clear of the 2.2 SkyActiv-D diesel, as 2012 to 2016 engines have fuel-thinned oil from DPF regenerations and camshaft wear.Read the guide →Used Mazda RX8 2003 buying guide2003 to 2012A used Mazda RX8 (2003 to 2012) is worth buying only with proof it's been driven warm and its oil kept topped up; reject any car that struggles to restart hot, the sign of worn rotary apex seals.Read the guide →
Mercedes-Benz
16 guidesUsed Mercedes-Benz A-Class buying guide1998 to presentA W177 Mercedes A-Class (2018 on) is the one to buy once you've seen its instrument display working, while a W168 (1998 to 2005) is best left alone, as its automatics fail between 40,000 and 80,000 miles.Read the guide →Used Mercedes-Benz B-Class buying guide2004 to presentThe Mercedes-Benz B-Class to go for is a manual diesel, since both automatics carry known faults and the 2013 to 2018 petrols' M270 timing chain stretches, though there's little on record about the manual either way.Read the guide →Used Mercedes-Benz C-Class buying guide1993 to 2024Go for a W205 Mercedes-Benz C-Class (2014 to 2021) with invoices for its automatic gearbox fluid changes, and avoid the 1.8 Kompressor and CGI petrols, whose timing chains stretch and wreck the valves.Read the guide →Used Mercedes-Benz CLA buying guide2013 to presentThe 2013 to 2018 Mercedes-Benz CLA is worth a look with the clock spring airbag recall done on 2013 to 2017 cars, but skip a CDI diesel with the 7G-DCT automatic and any M270 petrol that rattles from cold.Read the guide →Used Mercedes-Benz E-Class buying guide1995 to 2023The W213 E-Class is the one to buy, as long as a diesel shows no AdBlue warnings, while a pre-facelift W211 (2002 to 2006) is the one to skip for its failing Sensotronic brake pump.Read the guide →Used Mercedes-Benz GL-Class buying guide2006 to 2013A used Mercedes-Benz GL-Class is a comfortable, genuine seven-seater worth buying with the rear parking camera fitted, but on a GL 320 CDI or GL 350 CDI, check for an oil cooler seal leak first.Read the guide →Used Mercedes-Benz GLA buying guide2013 to presentA used Mercedes-Benz GLA from 2013 to 2018 is worth a look only with its driver's airbag recalls signed off and a smooth 7G-DCT pull-away; skip any 1.6 or 2.0 petrol that rattles from a cold start.Read the guide →Used Mercedes-Benz GLC buying guide2015 to 2023The Mercedes-Benz GLC to buy is a diesel with steering knuckle fix invoices and, on 2015 to 2017 cars, proof of the clock spring airbag and steering gear bolt recalls; avoid any whose front tyres skip on full lock.Read the guide →Used Mercedes-Benz GLS buying guide2013 to 2019A used Mercedes-Benz GLS is a big, plush seven-seater with little recorded against it; make sure a 2013 to 2015 diesel has had its emissions software update, and skip one if it's too big for your roads.Read the guide →Used Mercedes-Benz M-Class buying guide1998 to 2015Buy a 3.0 V6 CDI diesel M-Class with receipts for its oil cooler seals and the driver's airbag recall; skip an M272 ML 350 petrol built up to 2008 without proof of a new balance shaft sprocket.Read the guide →Used Mercedes-Benz R-Class buying guide2006 to 2013A seven-seat Mercedes-Benz R-Class diesel from 2010 onwards is the one to buy once you've checked its engine for oil leaks, while a 2006 to 2008 R 350 petrol risks a worn balance shaft sprocket.Read the guide →Used Mercedes-Benz SL-Class buying guide2002 to 2008A used Mercedes-Benz SL-Class from the 2006 revision onwards is the better car to drive, but whatever the year, pass on any with tired roof seals or a damp boot, because water in there drowns the pumps and electrics.Read the guide →Used Mercedes-Benz SL-Class R129 buying guide1989 to 2001The Mercedes-Benz SL-Class R129 to buy is a six-cylinder 280, 300 or 320 with a straight history; steer clear of left-hand-drive conversions, clones and Far East export cars whose orders were cancelled.Read the guide →Used Mercedes-Benz SLC buying guide2016 to 2020The Mercedes-Benz SLC 250 d is the sensible one and the AMG SLC 43 the one for noise, but with no known faults or owner reports on record, don't buy either without a roof test and full history.Read the guide →Used Mercedes-Benz SLK buying guide1996 to 2016Go for an R172 Mercedes-Benz SLK (2011 to 2015) that isn't Mars Red or Fire Opal Red, with dry carpets, flat roof panels and proof of its airbag recalls, and skip any 1.8 Kompressor that rattles on a cold start.Read the guide →Used Mercedes-Benz V-Class buying guide1996 to 2003Pick a Mercedes-Benz V-Class 2.2 diesel whose sliding door works and whose rear air suspension hasn't failed, and don't buy one with a cracked tailgate window, because that suspension's failure can shatter the glass.Read the guide →
MG
5 guidesUsed MG 3 buying guide2012 to presentAn MG 3 from the 2018 refresh onwards, with its reworked interior, is the one to pick, but don't buy one without a full service record, as three owners have had timing chains stretch or slip a tooth.Read the guide →Used MG 6 buying guide2011 to 2016Pick the MG 6 hatchback over the less practical saloon for its roomy cabin and tidy handling, but don't buy one expecting refinement: the engines are gruff and it's full of irritating little niggles.Read the guide →Used MG TF buying guide2002 to 2005Buy an MG TF with receipts for a multi-layer steel head gasket kit and stainless coolant pipes, and avoid any TF whose coolant level keeps dropping or that's been overheating.Read the guide →Used MG ZS buying guide2017 to 2024Any used MG ZS is worth a look if its history's clean, but on a 2019 to 2021 ZS EV make sure the rotary gear selector clicks into every position, and skip a petrol with recurring traction control warnings.Read the guide →Used MG ZS buying guide2001 to 2005A used MG ZS180 with the 2.5 V6 is the one to go for, while a four-cylinder ZS110 or ZS120 needs receipts for a proper head gasket kit or it's a gamble on overheating.Read the guide →
MINI
8 guidesUsed MINI 5-door buying guide2014 to presentA used MINI 5-door is the one to pick when adults need to sit in the back, and on a 1.5 litre three-cylinder car, ask for proof the maker's crankshaft bearing bulletin work was done.Read the guide →Used MINI Clubman buying guide2007 to presentEvery used MINI Clubman engine comes with a caution, so buy the one with invoices for timing chain work and a quiet cold start, and pass on any 1.6 petrol or N47 diesel that rattles when first fired up.Read the guide →Used MINI Cooper buying guide2001 to 2007A used MINI Cooper (2001 to 2007) is a fun buy on standard Sports Suspension with 15-inch wheels, but gearbox failure is the big risk, so pass on any car whose gearbox whines, crunches or sticks in gear.Read the guide →Used MINI Countryman buying guide2009 to presentThe MINI Countryman to go for is an F60 (2017 to 2024) Cooper with the three-cylinder petrol, or a first-generation Cooper petrol with chain receipts; avoid the first-generation N47 diesels, whose chain can snap without warning.Read the guide →Used MINI Hatch buying guide2001 to presentThe MINI Hatch to hunt for is a Mk2 Cooper petrol with receipts for timing chain work and a silent cold start; avoid a 2001 to 2004 Mk1 One or Cooper manual that whines in first, second or reverse.Read the guide →Used MINI One D R50 buying guide2003 to 2007The MINI One D R50 to buy has quiet power steering and receipts for any pump or column work; pass on one with a noisy steering column, as steering's the fault that keeps coming up.Read the guide →Used MINI one r50 buying guide2001 to presentPick a MINI One R50 built after 2002, as gearbox failures on 2001 and 2002 cars were climbing by 2007, and test the electric power steering pump, which can pack up and damage its wiring.Read the guide →Used MINI One R56 buying guide2007 to 2013The MINI One R56 to buy has a tight gear lever and receipts for any Vanos or cam sensor work; don't take one whose six-speed Getrag gearbox has a loose-feeling lever.Read the guide →
Mitsubishi
5 guidesUsed Mitsubishi ASX buying guide2010 to 2021Pick a Mitsubishi ASX diesel that's done mostly long runs and has its oil sitting right on the mark; one that's lived on short trips is the one to avoid, as failed filter regenerations wash diesel into its sump.Read the guide →Used Mitsubishi Carisma buying guide1995 to 2004A Mitsubishi Carisma 1.8 GDI is only worth buying with paperwork showing it's been run on super unleaded, because ordinary 95 RON fuel carbons that direct-injection engine up around 60,000 miles and can wreck it.Read the guide →Used Mitsubishi Colt 3-door buying guide2005 to 2008A manual Mitsubishi Colt 3-door, with either the characterful 1.1 petrol or the 1.5 diesel, is the one to go for; skip a semi-automatic unless there's a dealer invoice for its clutch software update.Read the guide →Used Mitsubishi i-MiEV buying guide2009 to 2017A used Mitsubishi i-MiEV is only worth having with clear evidence of how its battery is holding up, so skip any car that comes without it, and any older one with rust along the bonnet edge or rear wings.Read the guide →Used Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV buying guide2014 to 2021The Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV is a roomy, solidly built used buy if its battery still gives a decent electric range, but don't take a 2014 to 2016 car without proof all its recall work was done.Read the guide →
Nissan
14 guidesUsed Nissan 350Z buying guide2003 to 2009A Nissan 350Z from 2006 or early 2007 is the sweet spot, with the punchier 300PS engine and no gearbox-out slave cylinder job, but every year's clutch can wear out early, so test it hard.Read the guide →Used Nissan 370Z buying guide2009 to 2020A used Nissan 370Z, coupe or Roadster, is worth having for its high-revving V6 if you can live with a firm ride; don't buy one on 19 inch wheels until you've driven it over rough roads.Read the guide →Used Nissan Juke buying guide2010 to presentA 1.5 dCi is the lesser-risk Nissan Juke Mk1, provided its cambelt and DPF work has paperwork, but skip any 1.6 petrol with the Xtronic CVT automatic and its long record of failures.Read the guide →Used Nissan Micra buying guide1992 to 2022A manual Nissan Micra K13 is the lesser risk if its clutch bites low and doesn't slip (early clutch failure is a known fault), but skip the K13 CVT automatic, a known failure between 27,000 and 63,000 miles.Read the guide →Used Nissan Navara buying guide2002 to 2016A used Nissan Navara D40 is worth having only with sound chassis rails and a 2.5 dCi that starts without a rattle; don't touch a 2005 to 2008 truck whose frame shows cracks or heavy rust.Read the guide →Used Nissan Note buying guide2006 to 2016A manual Nissan Note Mk2 is the better bet, as long as the front anti-roll bar bushes are quiet over bumps; skip the X-tronic CVT automatic, which owners have seen fail outright before 28,000 miles.Read the guide →Used Nissan Pathfinder buying guide2005 to 2014A used Nissan Pathfinder 2.5 dCi is worth having only with on-time oil changes on paper and a quiet cold start, and never with rot, fresh plates or welding on its centre chassis rails, whatever the year.Read the guide →Used Nissan Pixo buying guide2009 to 2013A used Nissan Pixo makes a sensible small runabout when its gearchange is clean and its clutch is quiet; a sticking shift or a whirr from the transmission points to a big repair.Read the guide →Used Nissan Pulsar buying guide2014 to 2018A used Nissan Pulsar is roomy and quiet at speed, but the 1.2 DIG-T petrol has a piston ring fault that burns oil, so only buy one with a full dipstick and paperwork showing its oil use was checked.Read the guide →Used Nissan Qashqai buying guide2007 to presentA used Nissan Qashqai makes most sense as a manual diesel with its clutch checked and, on the 1.5 dCi, proof of cambelt changes; steer clear of the Xtronic CVT automatic and the 1.2 DIG-T petrol.Read the guide →Used Nissan Qashqai+2 buying guide2008 to 2014The Nissan Qashqai+2 to go for is a two-wheel-drive petrol manual with receipts for a new clutch and, on a 1.6, no sign of coolant loss; avoid the Xtronic CVT automatic, which has the most failure reports.Read the guide →Used Nissan Serena buying guide1993 to 2000A used Nissan Serena makes sense only as a petrol with a run of oil-change receipts; skip the 2.0 and 2.3 diesels, whose droning, jerky drive makes every journey a chore.Read the guide →Used Nissan Terrano II buying guide1993 to 2005A used Nissan Terrano II is worth considering as a 2.7 diesel, with its gear-driven camshafts, but skip any that's been worked hard off-road and clonks, leaks oil or whines from the transfer case.Read the guide →Used Nissan X-Trail buying guide2001 to 2022The Nissan X-Trail J11 (2014 to 2021) with a manual gearbox is the one to go for; avoid its Xtronic CVT automatic, which can judder, slip and fail outright between 40,000 and 80,000 miles.Read the guide →
Peugeot
22 guidesUsed Peugeot 1007 buying guide2005 to 2008A Peugeot 1007 is only worth buying with both electric sliding doors opening and staying open on the key fob and dash switch, and avoid a 1.6 HDi whose turbo whines or that smokes blue under load.Read the guide →Used Peugeot 106 buying guide1991 to 2002A plain petrol Peugeot 106 with a manual gearbox sidesteps the diesel and GTi 16v warnings, but don't buy one whose driver's seat won't slide and lock properly or whose front suspension knocks.Read the guide →Used Peugeot 107 buying guide2005 to 2014A Peugeot 107 built from the January 2009 facelift is the better buy because it has the bigger clutch from new, but the water pump can still fail on every year and engine, so ask when it was replaced.Read the guide →Used Peugeot 206 buying guide1998 to 2010Go for a manual Peugeot 206 with proof its recall work was done; the AL4 automatic's the one to avoid, as worn solenoids leave it thumping into gear or stuck in third.Read the guide →Used Peugeot 206 CC buying guide2000 to 2007A used Peugeot 206 CC makes most sense as a manual with a roof that opens and closes cleanly; skip the 1.6 automatic, whose AL4 four-speed box is this car's known weak point.Read the guide →Used Peugeot 207 buying guide2006 to 2015A manual Peugeot 207 with the 1.4 petrol is the lesser risk, provided its cooling system and electrics check out, while the 1.6 THP in the GT and GTI carries a known timing chain fault from 40,000 miles.Read the guide →Used Peugeot 207 CC buying guide2007 to 2015A used Peugeot 207 CC is worth having if its roof folds cleanly and stays dry; steer clear of a 1.6 THP turbo unless there's a receipt for its timing chain and tensioner.Read the guide →Used Peugeot 208 buying guide2012 to presentThe Peugeot 208 to go for is a Mk1 with the older 1.6 HDi diesel, which no serious known fault names, while any 1.2 PureTech petrol needs proof its wet belt and oil have been looked after.Read the guide →Used Peugeot 3008 buying guide2009 to presentA Peugeot 3008 sold from 2016 with the 2.0 BlueHDi diesel sidesteps every serious known engine fault on this car; skip the 1.5 BlueHDi, whose timing chain can snap and whose AdBlue tank pump can fail.Read the guide →Used Peugeot 307 buying guide2001 to 2008The Peugeot 307 to go for is a manual built after 2002, which dodges the early cars' flywheel and ABS faults; skip the AL4 automatic unless there are receipts showing its fluid has been changed.Read the guide →Used Peugeot 307 CC buying guide2003 to 2008Go for a manual Peugeot 307 CC whose roof folds and locks cleanly, and skip the AL4 four-speed automatic, whose pressure solenoids wear out when its fluid's been neglected.Read the guide →Used Peugeot 308 buying guide2007 to presentThe Peugeot 308 to go for is a Mk2 2.0 BlueHDi diesel, the lesser risk though one still needed a new engine, while the 1.2 PureTech petrol is the one to skip after repeated cambelt and engine failures.Read the guide →Used Peugeot 308 CC buying guide2009 to 2015A used Peugeot 308 CC with the 1.6 THP petrol carries a known timing chain fault, so only buy one with chain receipts and a quiet cold start, and skip the four-speed AL4 automatic.Read the guide →Used Peugeot 406 buying guide1997 to 2003Pick a Peugeot 406 on its condition rather than its engine, and on the 8-valve 2.0 HDi diesel pass on any car that knocks at idle or lights the battery warning, as that's the crankshaft pulley failing.Read the guide →Used Peugeot 407 buying guide2004 to 2011A Peugeot 407 is worth a look with receipts for front suspension and steering joint work, which can be worn out by 30,000 miles, but skip any diesel with the six-speed automatic, as it's been flagged for cutting out.Read the guide →Used Peugeot 5008 buying guide2009 to 2024The Peugeot 5008 SUV built from 2017 is the seven-seater to buy, but check a 1.5 BlueHDi for chain rattle and AdBlue warnings and a 1.2 PureTech for oil use and belt history, as both carry serious known faults.Read the guide →Used Peugeot 607 buying guide2000 to 2008A used Peugeot 607 from 2003 onwards avoids the early cars' hard driver's seat, but on an 8-valve 2.0 HDi diesel up to 2006, insist on a receipt for a new crankshaft pulley or plan to fit one.Read the guide →Used Peugeot 806 buying guide1995 to 2003The Peugeot 806 to look for is a 2.0 HDi with a bill for a new crankshaft damper pulley at its last timing belt change, and don't touch a 1997 or 1998 1.9 turbodiesel with a DHY engine.Read the guide →Used Peugeot 807 buying guide2003 to 2010The Peugeot 807 to be wary of is a 2003 to 2007 2.2 HDi, whose rain-soaked timing belt can fail and scrap the engine; little is on record about the others either way, so insist on paperwork.Read the guide →Used Peugeot Bipper buying guide2009 to 2018A used Peugeot Bipper is best bought with the ordinary manual gearbox, which sidesteps the hydraulic actuator failures that make the 1.3 HDi's EGC automated manual jump out of gear or drop into neutral.Read the guide →Used Peugeot Boxer buying guide2000 to presentBuy a Peugeot Boxer whose clutch and flywheel have receipts or pass a hill reverse on the test drive, and take the most care over heavy motorhome conversions on the 2.3 and 3.0 diesels, which suffer most.Read the guide →Used Peugeot iOn buying guide2010 to 2018A used Peugeot iOn only makes sense with a battery that still holds a good charge, since Peugeot quoted one owner £12,000 for a new pack; pass on any car already rusting at the bonnet edge or rear wings.Read the guide →
Porsche
3 guidesUsed Porsche 911 buying guide1997 to presentThe used Porsche 911 to chase is a 997 Gen 2 or later, which has no IMS bearing to fail; on anything older, insist on IMS bearing paperwork and skip any car with milky emulsion under the oil cap.Read the guide →Used Porsche Cayman buying guide2005 to presentGo for a Porsche Cayman from the 2009 model year on, whose engine has no IMS bearing, and don't buy an older one without paperwork on its intermediate shaft bearing and a quiet, clean-running engine.Read the guide →Used Porsche Macan buying guide2014 to presentA Porsche Macan's handling is the reason to buy one, but 2014 to 2018 cars carry a known transfer case clutch judder, so pick one with receipts for the transfer case oil change every 40,000 miles.Read the guide →
Renault
9 guidesUsed Renault Clio buying guide1998 to presentThe Renault Clio to find is a 2013 to 2019 Clio IV with the 1.5 dCi diesel or the non-turbo 1.2 16v and a manual; skip the TCe turbo petrols and the EDC automatic, whose faults are serious.Read the guide →Used Renault Grand Scenic buying guide2016 to 2020The Renault Grand Scenic is a roomy, comfortable seven-seater with no recurring fault against any year, so buy on condition and paperwork, and pass on one whose warning lights the seller can't explain with a job sheet.Read the guide →Used Renault Kadjar buying guide2015 to 2022The used Renault Kadjar to go for is a refined 1.5 or 1.6 dCi diesel on 17-inch wheels; the one to treat with care is the 1.2 TCe petrol with the EDC automatic, given its chain stretch and gearbox complaints.Read the guide →Used Renault Megane buying guide1999 to 2022The Renault Megane to buy is a Megane III from 2010 on, or a later car, with a manual gearbox, not the EDC automatic, whose juddering and control module failures are a serious known fault.Read the guide →Used Renault Modus buying guide2004 to 2012A used Renault Modus has had very few problems reported, so it's a fair small MPV buy, but don't take a 2010 1.2 petrol or a 2005 or 2006 car without proof its recall work was done.Read the guide →Used Renault Scenic buying guide1999 to 2016The Renault Scenic worth having is a petrol with a lever handbrake; steer clear of a 2001 to 2010 1.5 dCi, because its Delphi high-pressure fuel pump can break up and spread metal through the fuel system.Read the guide →Used Renault Trafic buying guide2001 to presentJudge a used Renault Trafic by its metal rather than its year: go for an X83 with solid sills, door steps and rear suspension mountings, and pass on any van with rot around those rear mounts.Read the guide →Used Renault Vel Satis buying guide2002 to 2007A used Renault Vel Satis is a hushed, oddball diesel cruiser worth a look, but any 2.2 dCi needs its rocker cover checked for warping and every car needs an electric parking brake that works.Read the guide →Used Renault Zoe buying guide2012 to presentThe Renault Zoe to buy is one that charges cleanly in front of you and comes with its battery paperwork; skip any 2013 to 2019 car showing a charging warning, because the on-board charger is a known failure.Read the guide →
Rover
2 guidesUsed Rover 25 buying guide1999 to 2005A K Series Rover 25 is worth buying only with receipts proving the head gasket was replaced with a multi-layer steel kit; skip any car that's losing coolant or running hot.Read the guide →Used Rover 75 buying guide1999 to 2005Pick a Rover 75 with body-coloured sills, as those MG Rover-built cars are better put together, and don't take on a 1.8 petrol without proof it's had a multi-layer steel head gasket.Read the guide →
Saab
1 guideSEAT
12 guidesUsed SEAT Altea buying guide2004 to 2015A manual SEAT Altea is the better used buy, because the DSG automatic carries the most trouble, from a heat exchanger that can flood the gearbox with coolant to clutch-pack trouble on 1.6 TDI cars.Read the guide →Used SEAT Altea Freetrack 4 buying guide2007 to 2009A used SEAT Altea Freetrack 4 makes sense for long-distance drivers who want four-wheel drive that copes off road, but its 2.0 TDI 170 clogs its particulate filter on short town runs, so skip it for city use.Read the guide →Used SEAT Altea XL buying guide2007 to 2015The SEAT Altea XL makes most sense as a manual, because the DSG automatic turns up in several owner complaints, and the older 2.0 TDI PD 170 diesel only suits drivers who regularly do long, fast runs.Read the guide →Used SEAT Arona buying guide2018 to presentGo for a SEAT Arona with the 1.0 TSI petrol rather than the 1.5 TSI Evo, which judders and kangaroos pulling away from cold, and on a 2018 car insist on proof the rear seatbelt recall was finished.Read the guide →Used SEAT Arosa 1997 buying guide1997 to 2005A used SEAT Arosa (1997 to 2005) is worth a look if the doors haven't dropped and the clutch cable works cleanly, but don't buy a 1.4 16v without a receipt showing its plastic timing belt tensioner was replaced.Read the guide →Used SEAT Ateca buying guide2016 to presentA used SEAT Ateca is roomy and rides well, but drive any 2017 to 2020 1.5 TSI Evo from cold to catch its known judder, and skip the 1.0 TSI if you'll often fill it on the motorway.Read the guide →Used SEAT Exeo buying guide2009 to 2013A used SEAT Exeo 2.0 TDI is a sturdy, good-driving saloon or estate, but pass on any diesel that's flashed its glow plug light, lit the engine warning light or gone into limp mode since its emissions fix.Read the guide →Used SEAT Ibiza buying guide1999 to presentA manual SEAT Ibiza is the one to buy, with the 1.0 or 1.5 petrol from 2017 on the lesser risk, because the 7-speed DSG automatic from 2009 to 2020 has a serious known fault causing judder and lost drive.Read the guide →Used SEAT Ibiza ST buying guide2010 to presentA manual 1.6 TDI is the lesser risk in a used SEAT Ibiza ST, as long as its diesel recall work's been done; steer clear of the FR's 1.4 TSI Twincharger, which is known for burning oil and failing outright.Read the guide →Used SEAT Leon buying guide1999 to presentThe SEAT Leon Mk3 (2013 to 2020) with a manual gearbox is the pick; pass on the seven-speed dry-clutch DSG, which carries a serious known fault for clutch and Mechatronic failures right through the Mk3's run.Read the guide →Used SEAT Leon Cupra buying guide2014 to 2020The SEAT Leon Cupra is a sharp, throaty hot hatch with no known faults on file, so buy the one that passes a hard test of its clutch or DSG, but skip it if you need a roomy back seat.Read the guide →Used SEAT Mii buying guide2011 to 2019Buy a SEAT Mii with the ordinary manual gearbox and steer clear of the automated manual, which two owners of its VW Up twin found slow and jerky to change and sometimes unwilling to pull away.Read the guide →
Skoda
11 guidesUsed Skoda Citigo buying guide2012 to 2019A Skoda Citigo with the manual gearbox is the better bet, but only one that selects first and reverse cleanly with a quiet clutch; skip the ASG automated manual, which has stranded one car and worn its clutch on another.Read the guide →Used Skoda Fabia buying guide2000 to presentA manual Skoda Fabia Mk3 (2014 to 2021) is the safer buy, though a 1.2 TSI from 2015 to 2019 needs its turbo checking, and the 7-speed DSG automatic is the one to avoid in any year.Read the guide →Used Skoda Fabia vRS buying guide2010 to 2013Treat a used Skoda Fabia vRS as a risky buy: every 2010 to 2013 car's 1.4 Twincharger can burn oil heavily, so only take one with records of its oil use and a DSG that pulls away cleanly.Read the guide →Used Skoda Felicia buying guide1995 to 2000Pick a Skoda Felicia petrol over the diesel, which has had some gearbox failures and loses front grip easily, and never take on a single-point injection car that's been converted to run on LPG.Read the guide →Used Skoda Karoq buying guide2017 to presentA used Skoda Karoq's worth having for its flexible cabin, but treat the 1.5 TSI petrol with care: it can kangaroo, stall or lose throttle pulling away from cold, so only buy one that drives cleanly on a cold start.Read the guide →Used Skoda Kodiaq buying guide2016 to 2024Go for a Skoda Kodiaq with a serviced wet-clutch DSG and it's a quiet, roomy family SUV; any 2017 to 2020 1.5 TSI Evo petrol needs driving from cold first, as its engine software can make it judder and stall.Read the guide →Used Skoda Octavia buying guide1998 to presentPick a Skoda Octavia Mk3 (2013 to 2020) with a manual gearbox, and steer clear of the seven-speed dry-clutch DSG, a known failure from as early as 2,500 miles on 1.0, 1.2, 1.4 and 1.8 TSI and 1.6 TDI cars.Read the guide →Used Skoda Rapid buying guide2012 to 2019A Skoda Rapid on standard rather than low-profile tyres is the one to pick, as early cars rode badly on them; don't take a 7-speed DSG automatic without receipts for its oil recall and 40,000-mile oil changes.Read the guide →Used Skoda Roomster buying guide2006 to 2015Go for a manual Skoda Roomster and pass on the seven-speed DSG automatic: its control unit has a record of failing on the smaller engines, and its software can briefly cut the engine as you pull into a junction.Read the guide →Used Skoda Superb buying guide2002 to 2024Go for a Skoda Superb Mk3 (2015 to 2024) and test the gearbox hard, since 2016 to 2018 manuals and seven-speed DQ200 DSGs both carry serious known faults; avoid the 2010 to 2012 Mk2 1.8 TSI.Read the guide →Used Skoda Yeti buying guide2009 to presentThe Skoda Yeti to buy is a 2.0 TDI, the lesser risk of its engines, but only one whose EGR and DPF have behaved since the emissions fix; avoid the 1.2 TSI, above all with the 7-speed DSG.Read the guide →
Smart
2 guidesUsed Smart City Coupe buying guide2000 to 2004A Smart City Coupe is worth a look as a right-hand-drive from early 2002 on with an engine that uses no oil; one blowing blue smoke points to the turbo and engine wear that can end in a full rebuild.Read the guide →Used Smart Roadster buying guide2002 to 2007A used Smart Roadster only makes sense as a bone-dry car with proof its door seals were fixed under the 2005 dealer campaign, because water reaching the fuse box and central electrics is this car's defining fault.Read the guide →
SsangYong
1 guideSubaru
3 guidesUsed Subaru Impreza buying guide1992 to 2019A used Subaru Impreza is worth having only with a solid body, so check the rear strut turrets and arches on any 1992 to 2007 car, and skip a 2.5 past 80,000 miles without proof of new head gaskets.Read the guide →Used Subaru Legacy buying guide2009 to presentBoth Subaru Legacy engines are clear of known faults, so buy either with a full history, but give the 2.0 Boxer diesel the harder look: it's had the costly owner reports, including a snapped crankshaft.Read the guide →Used Subaru Outback buying guide2014 to 2021A 2014 to 2021 Subaru Outback suits anyone after a comfortable, practical four-wheel-drive estate that copes off road; choose on condition rather than year, and learn the Lineartronic auto's slope-parking routine before it traps the selector in P.Read the guide →
Suzuki
5 guidesUsed Suzuki Celerio buying guide2014 to 2019A used Suzuki Celerio is an easy, roomy little car with nothing to steer you between years, so buy on condition and history, and on an early 2015 car insist on proof the brake pedal recall was done.Read the guide →Used Suzuki Jimny buying guide1998 to 2021A used Suzuki Jimny from 1998 to 2018 is bought on its metal, not its mileage: the rear floor, body mounts and axle arm brackets rot, so pick the one with the soundest underside you can find.Read the guide →Used Suzuki Splash buying guide2008 to 2014The Suzuki Splash 1.2 petrol is the lesser risk on a thin record, ahead of the 1.3 diesel, but only buy one with receipts for brake fluid changes every two years, as three owners' reports involve the ABS.Read the guide →Used Suzuki SX4 S-Cross buying guide2013 to 2021The Suzuki SX4 S-Cross makes sense as a manual, or as an automatic from September 2016 with the six-speed torque converter box; don't buy one with the twin-clutch auto fitted in 2015 and 2016.Read the guide →Used Suzuki Vitara buying guide2015 to presentA used Suzuki Vitara makes most sense with a petrol engine, which sidesteps the 1.6 DDiS diesel's EGR and DPF clogging on 2015 to 2018 cars; whichever you pick, check the rear tyres' outer edges for wear.Read the guide →
Toyota
11 guidesUsed Toyota Auris buying guide2006 to 2019A Toyota Auris Mk2 (2012 to 2018) is the better bet, though hybrids up to 2015 carry a High-rated head gasket fault (and up to 2014 an inverter one), so check for coolant loss; avoid any Mk1 MultiMode.Read the guide →Used Toyota Auris Sports buying guide2013 to 2019A low-mileage Toyota Auris Sports is a sound used buy if it's a hybrid under 80,000 miles with the inverter recall done, or a 1.33 petrol that isn't burning oil; high-mileage hybrids carry the serious faults.Read the guide →Used Toyota Aygo buying guide2005 to 2022Go for a manual Toyota Aygo 1.0 with a clutch that bites low and a dry boot, and give the MMT automated manual a miss, as its gearbox can jerk, slip and lose drive altogether.Read the guide →Used Toyota C-HR buying guide2016 to 2023Neither engine in the used Toyota C-HR has a known fault against it, so choose on the individual car: get proof its recall work's done (hybrid wiring harness or 1.2 petrol handbrake) and skip any with a cracked windscreen.Read the guide →Used Toyota Corolla Verso buying guide2002 to 2009The Toyota Corolla Verso to go for is a manual 1.8 VVT-i petrol with its oil use checked, since early engines can burn it heavily; skip the MMT automatic, which can drop into neutral on the move.Read the guide →Used Toyota iQ buying guide2008 to 2014A Toyota iQ 1.0 built from June 2010 is the pick, since those cars got the reworked exhaust and EGR pipe; go carefully with the 1.33, whose piston rings can make it burn serious amounts of oil.Read the guide →Used Toyota Landcruiser 100 Amazon buying guide1998 to 2008A used Toyota Landcruiser 100 Amazon is worth having as a diesel with an unbroken service history and clean automatic gearbox fluid; skip the thirsty 4.5 litre V8 petrol and any car whose fluid has turned black.Read the guide →Used Toyota Prius buying guide2000 to presentA Gen 4 Toyota Prius (2016 to 2022) is the safest bet, provided its wiring harness recall was done on cars up to 2018, and steer clear of a Gen 3 past 80,000 miles, where its inverter starts failing.Read the guide →Used Toyota Urban Cruiser buying guide2009 to 2013The Toyota Urban Cruiser is an offbeat small car worth a look once both recalls are done, but treat the 1.4 D-4D 4WD diesel with care: its clutch and dual mass flywheel have failed early.Read the guide →Used Toyota Yaris buying guide1999 to presentPick a petrol or hybrid Mk3 Toyota Yaris (2011 to 2017), checking a 1.33 isn't burning oil, and skip any 2005 to 2011 car with the MMT automatic, whose actuator and clutch can fail from 22,000 miles.Read the guide →Used Toyota Yaris Verso buying guide2000 to 2005A used Toyota Yaris Verso is a practical, versatile small car, and a manual or the four-speed automatic sidesteps its worst gearbox risk: the Freetronic, whose automated clutch can leak fluid and lose every gear without warning.Read the guide →
Vauxhall
23 guidesUsed Astra I Sport Tourer 2010 buying guide2010 to 2016A manual Vauxhall Astra Sport Tourer built from August 2012, after the electronic handbrake went, is the better bet once you've proof of the Takata airbag recall and checked the steering; avoid every 2010 to 2015 automatic.Read the guide →Used Vauxhall Adam buying guide2013 to 2019The Vauxhall Adam makes sense for one or two people who want a small car they can personalise, but only buy one with proof that the steering, sunroof and handbrake recalls covering it were done.Read the guide →Used Vauxhall Antara buying guide2007 to 2015A used Vauxhall Antara is a gamble on any engine, so only buy a diesel with proof the particulate filter fire recall was done, and check a 4x4 hard for transfer box and gearbox trouble.Read the guide →Used Vauxhall Astra buying guide1998 to presentA manual Vauxhall Astra K with the 1.0 petrol is the lower-risk used buy, provided the clutch and steering feel right and its brake and airbag recalls are done; leave any 2010 to 2015 Astra automatic alone.Read the guide →Used Vauxhall Astra Coupe/Convertible buying guide2000 to 2004A used Vauxhall Astra Coupe/Convertible makes most sense as a 1.8 with a quiet, uncracked exhaust manifold; don't take a 2.2 built before March 2002 unless there's proof its timing chain oil feed was fixed.Read the guide →Used Vauxhall Astra G Diesel buying guide1998 to 2004The Vauxhall Astra G Diesel to go for is a 1.7 with a receipt showing the oil pump pulleys were renewed at its last belt change; avoid the 2.0 and 2.2 DI 16v, whose oil burning is a genuine fault.Read the guide →Used Vauxhall Astra Sporthatch buying guide2005 to 2011Vauxhall Astra Sporthatch buyers should steer clear of the 1.9 CDTi diesel and the Easytronic gearbox; a manual petrol dodges those, but check a 1.4 Twinport's engine number and get proof of the airbag recall.Read the guide →Used Vauxhall Astra Twintop buying guide2006 to 2011The Vauxhall Astra Twintop to buy is a petrol whose roof cycles cleanly and whose airbag recall is done; the 1.9 CDTi diesel has two engine-wrecking known faults, a thrown timing belt and broken swirl flaps.Read the guide →Used Vauxhall Cascada buying guide2013 to 2019A used Vauxhall Cascada's a comfortable, well-built convertible, but don't buy one without proof its Takata airbag recall has been done, and treat the early 2.0 CDTi diesel, sold until mid-2015, with caution.Read the guide →Used Vauxhall Combo buying guide2001 to presentThe Vauxhall Combo Life (2018 to 2024) is the family pick; avoid any 1.3 CDTi diesel van from 2005 to 2018 whose oil sits above the dipstick's top mark, a warning that fuel is flooding the sump.Read the guide →Used Vauxhall Corsa buying guide1993 to presentA Vauxhall Corsa E (2014 to 2019) with the non-turbo 1.4 petrol and a manual gearbox is the soundest buy if it isn't misfiring, but give the 2005 to 2018 1.3 CDTi diesel with a particulate filter a miss.Read the guide →Used Vauxhall Corsavan buying guide2007 to 2015A used Vauxhall Corsavan 1.3 CDTi is only worth having with its oil sitting at the right mark, clear windscreen drains and a quiet engine; don't touch one whose oil has risen or smells of diesel.Read the guide →Used Vauxhall Frontera buying guide1991 to 2003A used Vauxhall Frontera is a crude, truck-based 4x4 with a long list of quality complaints, so only buy a road-driven one that's never towed, and skip any 2.2 diesel that's burning oil.Read the guide →Used Vauxhall Grandland X buying guide2018 to 2021A used Vauxhall Grandland X is quiet and roomy, and the 1.6 diesel is the one to look at first, because the 1.2 PureTech petrol's oil-bathed timing belt can break down and starve the engine of oil.Read the guide →Used Vauxhall Insignia buying guide2008 to presentA petrol Vauxhall Insignia automatic is the lesser risk, dodging the manual flywheel and clutch failures; skip the 2.0 CDTi, whose oil pickup seal can starve the engine of oil.Read the guide →Used Vauxhall Mokka buying guide2012 to 2019The used Vauxhall Mokka to go for is the 1.4 Turbo petrol, as long as its clutch and coolant tank check out, while the 1.6 CDTi diesel is the one to skip because of its timing chain tensioner.Read the guide →Used Vauxhall Omega buying guide1994 to 2003The Vauxhall Omega to look for is a 2.5 or 3.0 V6 petrol with dry cam covers and proof of the June 2000 crankshaft recall; it's the lesser risk, while the BMW 2.5 diesel drew a large number of complaints.Read the guide →Used Vauxhall Signum buying guide2003 to 2008The Vauxhall Signum is best bought as a manual with receipts for its timing belt or chain work; avoid a diesel automatic, as a failing radiator heat exchanger can let coolant into the gearbox fluid.Read the guide →Used Vauxhall Vectra buying guide1995 to 2008A Vauxhall Vectra C (2002 to 2008) with the 1.8 petrol is the lower-risk buy, while a 1.9 CDTi diesel isn't worth having without receipts showing its timing belt and water pump were replaced together.Read the guide →Used Vauxhall Viva buying guide2015 to 2019A used Vauxhall Viva from any year between 2015 and 2019 makes a sensible five-door town car, but check the clutch hard, as owners of a 2016 and a 2017 car both had theirs fail early.Read the guide →Used Vauxhall vx220 buying guide2000 to 2004A Vauxhall VX220 whose 2.2 engine dates from March 2002 onwards is the safer buy; an earlier one needs proof its chain oiling was fixed or the chain renewed, and don't touch one with fibreglass hiding tub damage.Read the guide →Used Vauxhall VXR8 buying guide2007 to 2018Go for a Vauxhall VXR8 with the 6.2-litre LS3 V8, which pulls harder in the gears than the older 6.0-litre without using more fuel, but don't buy one if heavy fuel and tax bills will hurt.Read the guide →Used Vauxhall Zafira buying guide1999 to 2018The Vauxhall Zafira Tourer is the safer buy if an automatic shifts cleanly and a 1.4T isn't losing oil, but steer clear of the Zafira B 1.9 CDTi, whose water pump and swirl flaps can wreck the engine.Read the guide →
Volkswagen
25 guidesUsed Volkswagen Amarok buying guide2011 to 2023A 2011 to 2023 Volkswagen Amarok makes a refined, car-like used pick-up, but pass on one with a grinding gearbox, as two owners have had the transmission fail, one at just 15,000 miles.Read the guide →Used Volkswagen Bora buying guide1999 to 2006A Volkswagen Bora 1.4 or 1.6 16v with tensioner work on file, or a TDI that pulls cleanly, is the lesser risk; steer clear of the 1.8 20v, whose timing belt can snap and wreck the engine.Read the guide →Used Volkswagen Caddy Maxi Life buying guide2008 to presentA Volkswagen Caddy Maxi Life with the 2.0 TDI is the lesser risk, as long as its clutch and flywheel check out; a 2010 to 2015 1.6 TDI can suffer injector failure, so don't buy one without injector receipts.Read the guide →Used Volkswagen Caravelle buying guide1990 to 2023The later T5 Volkswagen Caravelle is the safer used buy, since the older T4 rots in the sills, sliding door and rear crossmember badly enough to fail an MOT; on any T5, check the sliding door's lower channel.Read the guide →Used Volkswagen Cargo Up buying guide2012 to 2023A used Volkswagen Cargo Up is worth a look as long as the clutch bites cleanly, the footwells are dry and the front wings aren't bubbling; skip any that smells of hot clutch on a hill start.Read the guide →Used Volkswagen CC buying guide2012 to 2017The Volkswagen CC is a refined, handsome buy as a 1.8 TSI petrol, but treat any manual built up to 2015 with care: clutch and flywheel failures between 25,000 and 50,000 miles are a known problem.Read the guide →Used Volkswagen Eos buying guide2006 to presentA used Volkswagen Eos is only worth having with a dry cabin and receipts for roof seal work, and a 2008 to 2012 1.4 TSI needs proof its timing chain and tensioner were renewed, as they can wreck the engine.Read the guide →Used Volkswagen Fox buying guide2006 to 2012A used Volkswagen Fox is worth a look if it comes with receipts for regular oil changes, but don't take on a 1.2 three-cylinder that rattles on a cold start or runs lumpily.Read the guide →Used Volkswagen Golf buying guide1997 to presentA manual Volkswagen Golf Mk7 (2013 to 2020) is the one to go for once its clutch, parking brake and adaptive cruise pass a drive; give the DQ200 7-speed DSG a miss, as its clutches and control unit fail.Read the guide →Used Volkswagen Golf GTE buying guide2015 to 2020A used Volkswagen Golf GTE makes sense if most of your trips fit inside its battery range, but don't buy one whose adaptive cruise brakes on its own or whose electric parking brake sticks.Read the guide →Used Volkswagen Golf IV R32 buying guide2002 to 2004A used Volkswagen Golf IV R32 is worth having when its 3.2 VR6 starts cold without a rattle; avoid any car that clatters for several seconds on start-up, the sign of stretched timing chains.Read the guide →Used Volkswagen Golf Plus buying guide2005 to 2009A used Volkswagen Golf Plus is the lesser risk as a 1.4 or 1.6 petrol whose five-speed gearbox casing is dry and uncracked; skip the 1.9 TDI with the BXE engine code, which has broken con rods through the block.Read the guide →Used Volkswagen Golf SV buying guide2014 to 2020For a used Volkswagen Golf SV, aim for a 1.5 TSI manual from 2017 on, testing its cold pull-away, electric handbrake and any adaptive cruise, and avoid the 7-speed dry-clutch DSG automatic.Read the guide →Used Volkswagen Jetta buying guide2006 to 2017The Volkswagen Jetta worth hunting for is a manual diesel that isn't losing coolant, because the 7-speed dry-clutch DSG automatic used with the engines under 2.0 litres has a serious record of control unit failures.Read the guide →Used Volkswagen Lupo buying guide1999 to 2004A manual Volkswagen Lupo is the one to buy, and a 2001 1.0 or 1.4S needs proof its crankcase breather pipe was replaced with the modified part; avoid the four-speed automatic, which has a history of problems.Read the guide →Used Volkswagen Passat buying guide1997 to 2024Go for a B8 Volkswagen Passat (2014 to 2023) with the 2.0 TDI, and skip any 1.4 TSI or 1.6 TDI with the 7-speed DQ200 DSG, whose clutch packs wear early and whose mechatronic units fail.Read the guide →Used Volkswagen Passat CC buying guide2008 to 2012A used Volkswagen Passat CC makes most sense as a manual with an electric parking brake that works cleanly, but don't touch a 2.0 TDI with diesel weeping from its fuel filter onto the auxiliary belt.Read the guide →Used Volkswagen Passat GTE buying guide2016 to presentA used Volkswagen Passat GTE is a quick, refined plug-in for electric commuting, but 2016 and 2017 cars can be stranded by a failed SX6 high-voltage switch, so insist on invoices for any hybrid repairs.Read the guide →Used Volkswagen Polo buying guide1994 to presentStick to a manual petrol Volkswagen Polo from 2009 on, skipping the GTI's Twincharger and any 1.2 TSI that rattles from cold, and avoid the 7-speed DSG automatic, which judders and loses drive.Read the guide →Used Volkswagen Scirocco buying guide2008 to 2017The Volkswagen Scirocco to go for is a manual 2.0 TDI with invoices for a new clutch and dual-mass flywheel, the lesser risk here; avoid both 1.4 TSI engines, whose chain and piston faults can wreck the engine.Read the guide →Used Volkswagen T-Cross buying guide2018 to presentThe used Volkswagen T-Cross to go for is the 1.0-litre petrol, the pick of the range; skip the diesel, which is noisy and unrefined, and check every warning light and the auto-dipping headlights on the drive.Read the guide →Used Volkswagen T-Roc buying guide2018 to presentA Volkswagen T-Roc 1.5 TSI is the better pick if there's proof it's had the engine software update for its cold judder, while a 1.0 TSI needs care, as several burnt out clutches before 4,000 miles.Read the guide →Used Volkswagen Tiguan buying guide2008 to 2024The Volkswagen Tiguan to buy is a 2016-on Mk2 with a quiet gearbox and Haldex oil receipts if it's a 4Motion; avoid the 2009 to 2013 2.0 TSI petrol, whose timing chain tensioner and piston rings fail.Read the guide →Used Volkswagen Touran buying guide2003 to presentThe Volkswagen Touran's lesser risk is a 2010 to 2015 manual 2.0 TDI checked for EGR and DPF trouble; the 1.6 TDI, the 1.4 TSI petrols and the seven-speed DQ200 DSG automatic all carry serious known faults.Read the guide →Used Volkswagen Transporter buying guide2003 to presentA Volkswagen Transporter T5.1 with a regular 2.0 TDI and manual gearbox is the one to find, as the 2010 to 2015 2.0 BiTDI risks a corroding EGR cooler wrecking its bores.Read the guide →
Volvo
12 guidesUsed Volvo S40 buying guide2004 to 2012A used Volvo S40 is a comfortable, well-made saloon, and a later car dodges several early faults; skip the 1.6 diesel if you mostly do short trips, because its particulate filter clogs.Read the guide →Used Volvo S40/V40 buying guide1996 to 2004A Volvo S40/V40 built after spring 2000 is the one to hunt down, since the steering and handling improved then, but skip the 1.8 GDI unless it's always been fed super unleaded.Read the guide →Used Volvo S60 buying guide2000 to 2023A petrol Volvo S60 is the lower-risk used buy, because the five-cylinder diesels (D5, 2.4D, and the D3 and D4 until about 2014) can throw their timing belt and wreck the engine unless the tensioners and pulleys were renewed.Read the guide →Used Volvo S90 buying guide2016 to 2023The Volvo S90 is a properly comfortable used saloon: go for a 2.0 diesel with proof of the 2019 manifold fire-risk recall and no EGR symptoms, and skip any 2016 to 2018 diesel without that recall paperwork.Read the guide →Used Volvo V40 buying guide2012 to 2019Buy a Volvo V40 on its paperwork rather than its badge: any 2.0 diesel built from 2014 needs proof of the 2019 EGR recall work, and a 1.6 D2 that's spent its life on short trips is best left alone.Read the guide →Used Volvo V50 buying guide2004 to 2012For a Volvo V50, a 2008 model year car sidesteps the ESP-light ABS unit fault described on earlier ones, but skip the 1.6 D2 diesel if most of your driving is short trips, because its particulate filter clogs.Read the guide →Used Volvo V70 buying guide2007 to 2016A 2.4 D5 is the lesser risk in a Volvo V70, with bills for its cambelt at 96,000 miles or 8 years and its tensioners, as a thrown belt wrecks the engine; skip a 2.0 D4 without recall proof.Read the guide →Used Volvo V70/S70 buying guide1996 to 2000The Volvo V70/S70 to find is one built after the late 1999 changes that earned it four crash-test stars, with proof its recalls were done; a TDI with no record of a new belt tensioner is the riskiest buy.Read the guide →Used Volvo XC40 buying guide2018 to presentThe Volvo XC40 is a refined, comfortable SUV that's worth buying used; go for one with every warranty job on file, and don't take a T5 that won't start cleanly after standing.Read the guide →Used Volvo XC60 buying guide2008 to presentThe lesser risk in a Volvo XC60 is a 2.4 D5 with proof of its aux belt tensioner recall and a cambelt change at 96,000 miles or 8 years, as the 2014 to 2017 2.0 D4's EGR clogs.Read the guide →Used Volvo XC70 buying guide2000 to 2016The used Volvo XC70 to go for is a five-cylinder D5 with recent receipts for the timing belt, tensioner and idler pulleys, since that belt drive can wreck the engine; the 2.0 diesel from 2014 clogs its EGR.Read the guide →Used Volvo XC90 buying guide2002 to presentA used Volvo XC90 is the lesser risk as a D5 with bills for its cambelt change at 96,000 miles or 8 years and its tensioners, but leave the 2002 to 2006 T6 and its fragile automatic alone.Read the guide →
Where these guides come from
If you used the Honest John car-by-car reviews before the site closed in 2026, this is where that kind of advice now lives. Each guide is written from the archived owner reports and model notes, our own known-faults database, the confirmed service intervals and the Real MPG figures, and every number on a guide comes from that data rather than from the text. New guides are added as they are checked.
CarAdCheck is not affiliated with Honest John or Volkswagen Financial Services. What happened to Honest John, and where each feature lives now.
Before you go and see any of them
The model is one decision. Reading the advert, the history and the seller are the rest.
How to haggle for a used car: negotiate the price with what its records showHPI check vs carVertical: which is better, and our pick for a UK carMOT advisories explained: how to check them, and which ones should worry you
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