Used car buying guides: which one to buy, and what to check
One guide per model, 21 so far and growing. Each one says which generation and engine to go for and which to walk away from, what to look at on the day, what it really costs to run and what owners like about living with one. Written from our known-faults database, the Real MPG figures and the archived owner history, so every number has data behind it.
Looking for the fault list itself? That is on the common problems pages, one per model, and each guide links to its own.
Audi
Used Audi A3 buying guide1996 to presentThe Audi A3 that's the lesser risk is a manual with receipts for clutch and flywheel work, while the 7-speed dry-clutch S tronic (DQ200) is the one to avoid, as its mechatronic unit fails between 30,000 and 80,000 miles.Used Audi A5 buying guide2007 to presentGo for an Audi A5 2.0 TDI with its cambelt done on time and, on 2009 or older cars, the injector recall carried out; avoid 2008 to 2015 1.8 and 2.0 TFSI petrols, which can burn oil heavily.
Dacia
Fiat
Ford
Used Ford C-Max buying guide2003 to 2019A Ford C-Max 1.6 TDCi manual with a clean injector record and light, steady steering is the lesser risk; steer clear of the 1.0 EcoBoost manual, whose clutch, flywheel and slave cylinder can fail from 5,000 miles.Used Ford Fiesta buying guide1995 to presentA manual petrol Ford Fiesta Mk7 or Mk8 with receipts for cambelt, spark plug and degas hose work is the one to buy; steer clear of the 2012 to 2018 Powershift automatic, whose dry clutch judders and fails.Used Ford Focus buying guide1998 to 2025A Mk3 Ford Focus with the 1.6 Ti-VCT petrol and a manual gearbox is the lesser risk once you've checked the steering assist, while the dry-clutch Powershift automatic on 2011 to 2018 petrols is best avoided.
Honda
Hyundai
Used Hyundai i20 buying guide2009 to presentGo for a petrol Hyundai i20, either a manual with bills for a new clutch and gearbox seals or a Mk1 with the 4-speed torque converter automatic, but avoid 2015-on cars with the seven-speed dual-clutch gearbox.Used Hyundai Santa Fe buying guide2001 to 2024Pick a Hyundai Santa Fe with the 2.2 CRDi diesel, and steer clear of the 2010 to 2018 cars with the 2.0 or 2.4 Theta II petrol, which carry a known risk of bearing failure and engine seizure.
Kia
Mercedes-Benz
MINI
Nissan
Used Nissan Qashqai buying guide2007 to presentA used Nissan Qashqai makes most sense as a manual diesel with its clutch checked and, on the 1.5 dCi, proof of cambelt changes; steer clear of the Xtronic CVT automatic and the 1.2 DIG-T petrol.Used Nissan X-Trail buying guide2001 to 2022The Nissan X-Trail J11 (2014 to 2021) with a manual gearbox is the one to go for; avoid its Xtronic CVT automatic, which can judder, slip and fail outright between 40,000 and 80,000 miles.
Skoda
Vauxhall
Used Vauxhall Astra buying guide1998 to presentA manual Vauxhall Astra K with the 1.0 petrol engine is the lower-risk used buy, provided the clutch and steering feel right, while any 2010 to 2015 Astra automatic is best left alone.Used Vauxhall Corsa buying guide1993 to presentA Vauxhall Corsa E (2014 to 2019) with the non-turbo 1.4 petrol and a manual gearbox is the soundest buy if it isn't misfiring, but give the 2004 to 2014 1.3 CDTi diesel with a particulate filter a miss.Used Vauxhall Zafira buying guide1999 to 2018The Vauxhall Zafira Tourer is the safer buy if an automatic shifts cleanly and a 1.4T isn't losing oil, but steer clear of the Zafira B 1.9 CDTi, whose water pump and swirl flaps can wreck the engine.
Volkswagen
Used Volkswagen Polo buying guide1994 to presentStick to a manual petrol Volkswagen Polo from 2009 on, skipping the GTI's Twincharger and any 1.2 TSI that rattles from cold, and avoid the 7-speed DSG automatic, which judders and loses drive.Used Volkswagen Transporter buying guide2003 to presentA Volkswagen Transporter T5.1 with a regular 2.0 TDI and manual gearbox is the one to find, as the 2010 to 2015 2.0 BiTDI risks a corroding EGR cooler wrecking its bores.
Before you go and see any of them
The model is one decision. Reading the advert, the history and the seller are the rest.
Which cars have a wet belt, and how to tell before you buyHow to find a car's previous advertsThe most economical used cars in the real world, not the brochure
All buyer's guides →