Used Vauxhall Omega review and buying guide (1994 to 2003): which one to buy and what to check

Which used Vauxhall Omega should you buy?

Pick a 2.5 or 3.0 V6 petrol. It isn't fault-free, but the diesels carry the heavier record. The BMW-powered 2.5 straight-six diesel drew a large number of quality complaints, and the 2.2 DI 16v diesel seems to burn oil for real, not just read low on the dipstick. Both V6s are nice to drive, and the Omega's a good-handling car that gives you more feel of the road than the Senator did.

Condition counts for more than the year. The rear-drive Omega finished at the end of 2003, so every one's an old car now and tidy examples with modest miles are scarce. Earlier cars bring a few extra checks: poor paint on some, spring failures on 1997 builds, and a recall for the plastic cambelt idler pulley on 1994 to 1998 four-cylinder 16v engines.

Which Omega engines and gearboxes are the safe choices?

The 2.5 and 3.0 V6 petrols are the pick, but they're not trouble-free. Every V6 cam cover leaks in the end, whether it's the early alloy one or the later black plastic type, and oil reaching the exhaust heat shield or the spark plug wells brings smoke when hot and ignition faults. V6 Omegas were also recalled in June 2000 over a crankshaft fault.

Avoid the BMW 2.5 diesel unless there's proof of oil changes every 4,500 to 5,000 miles, which busy company drivers easily skipped. The 2.2 DI 16v diesel appears to really use oil, not just show a falsely low dipstick, and there are reports of injector seals failing on later 2.2 16v diesels, letting fuel into the sump oil. Leaky injector seals on the 2.2 DI also make it hard to start and prone to stalling just after it fires.

On the 2.0 16v petrol, a sticking idle air control valve makes it idle at 1200 to 2000 rpm. Cleaning can cure it; if not, it needs a new valve plus an oil separator in the breather, which also cures stalling on 2.0 16v automatics. The 2.2 petrol's ignition control unit is prone to burning out, and autos can develop electrical faults between the shift lever and the valve box that changes gear.

What should you check when viewing a used Omega?

Switch on every electrical item, the trip computer included, and make sure the ABS warning light goes out, since Omegas suffer electrical and electronic faults. Run the air conditioning, heating and fan through every setting: the flap controls often break and reaching them takes a lot of dismantling. Turn the key a few times too, as the ignition steering lock failing was a general Omega problem.

On an automatic, open the coolant header tank. One owner warned that any oil in there is gearbox fluid escaping from the heat exchanger built into the radiator, and once coolant gets into the gearbox the car's finished. The same owner had a heater matrix give up, which meant taking the dashboard apart. Under the bonnet, look for oil weeping from the V6 cam covers and for damp around the ignition coils, which let in water.

Look at the inner edges of the front tyres, as wear there usually means tired front wishbone bushes. Check the paint on early cars and the rear door bump strips on pre-facelift ones, which get bent by half-open front doors. On a pre-2000 MV6, have the 17 inch Irmscher wheels spun on a balancing machine, because they don't cope with potholes.

Ask for proof the June 2000 V6 crankshaft recall was done. On a 1994 to 1998 four-cylinder 16v, there should be paperwork showing the plastic cambelt idler pulley was replaced under the recall, as a failed one can snap the belt. On a BMW diesel, you're after stamps showing oil changes every 4,500 to 5,000 miles and nothing less frequent.

Paste the advert into the free check and it runs these against the listing, the MOT history and the DVLA record before you travel.