Used Hyundai ix20 review and buying guide (2010 to 2018): which one to buy and what to check

Which used Hyundai ix20 should you buy?

A Hyundai ix20 1.6 with the original four-speed torque converter automatic is the version to aim for, provided it isn't the 1.6 CRDi diesel, which carries the car's one known fault. One owner chose a 1.6 automatic over a Kia Venga, and no owner report on record describes trouble with that gearbox.

The one known fault on the ix20 sits on the 1.6 CRDi, and it's rated High. Across the whole 2010 to 2018 run, carbon from infrequent oil changes can block the turbo's oil feed pipes and strainers, and the turbo then fails, typically between 70,000 and 120,000 miles. A 1.6 CRDi is only worth considering with receipts showing the oil's been changed on time throughout.

The 1.4 CRDi has no known fault logged, but that's a gap rather than a clean record, because three owner reports gather on it: a 2011 car that struggled to start below 3C, one that lost power and needed new injectors, and a failed control module that left another owner waiting at least 7 weeks for parts in 2012.

Later cars aren't spotless on paper either. An April 2016 facelift car needed a new clutch under warranty at its first service at 10,000 miles, and a 2018 car's engine was ruined at 9,500 miles after it ran out of oil without a warning light coming on. That's a reason to give a newer ix20 the same checks as an early one.

Which ix20 engines and gearboxes are the safe choices?

The 1.6 with the original four-speed automatic is the pick, and that gearbox has a proper dipstick so you can check its fluid level yourself before handing over any money. Check the logbook to confirm it isn't a 1.6 CRDi, though, because that diesel carries the ix20's only known fault.

That 1.6 CRDi fault is turbo failure, rated High. Skipped oil changes let carbon build up and choke the turbo's oil feed pipes and strainers, and the symptoms are a loud whine or siren noise from the turbo, a loss of power and blue exhaust smoke. One 2012 car at 42,000 miles also shook under hard pulling between 1,600 and 1,800rpm, with partly blocked turbo oil pipes put forward as one cause.

The 1.4 CRDi has no known fault logged but plenty of single reports against it. One car lost power, had its injectors replaced and afterwards wouldn't come on boost until 2,300rpm; a 2011 car was hard to start once the temperature dropped below 3C; and a 1.4 diesel's failed control module meant a wait of no less than 7 weeks for a replacement.

One April 2016 facelift car juddered as the clutch was let out when pulling away and got a new clutch cover and plate under warranty at 10,000 miles. The cause turned out to be the balance weights inside the clutch plate's springs, and the noise stopped once the clutch had been swapped. It's one car, so it doesn't rule anything out, but test the take-up carefully.

What should you check when viewing a used ix20?

Pull the engine oil dipstick before anything else. One 2018 ix20 ran completely dry by 9,500 miles without the oil level or oil pressure light warning the driver, and it needed a whole new engine. On a 1.6 CRDi, oil matters twice over, so ask for dated receipts for every oil change and treat gaps in the history as a turbo waiting to go.

On a diesel, listen from cold and under a firm pull for a whine or siren noise from the turbo, watch the mirror for blue smoke, and make sure it doesn't feel flat. Pull hard uphill through 1,600 to 1,800rpm too, and on a 1.4 CRDi with new injectors on the invoice, check the turbo isn't lazy until well up the rev range.

Brakes deserve a close look. An 11-plate 1.4 CRDi had a rear caliper seize with the handbrake on at just 8,500 miles, and in 2012 dealers asked owners to bring cars in so the brake calipers could be inspected, though it wasn't an official recall. Ask for proof the brake fluid's been changed at three years and every two years after, since one owner's ABS module failed once moisture got inside it.

Walk round and make sure the driver's front quarterlight is firmly in place (one 2012 car's came loose at 51,000 miles), look for condensation inside the headlights, and check the tyres for cracks between the tread blocks, which one 2011 1.4 CRDi had on all four at 9,700 miles. Ask for receipts for any clutch, injector or brake caliper work.

Paste the advert into the free check and it runs these against the listing, the MOT history and the DVLA record before you travel.

What does a used Hyundai ix20 cost to run?

What do ix20 owners like about them?

The seats are a real point in the ix20's favour. One owner chose a 1.6 automatic because its seat cushions have thicker padding and the front seat bases are longer, so there's more support under your thighs. If comfy seats matter to you, sit in one for a good few minutes before you decide.

One owner's ix20, bought in 2012, shows how the car can hold up with sensible care. It was serviced by an independent garage every year or 10,000 miles, needed just one warranty claim in four and a half years (put right free, even without dealer servicing), and at seven years old and 70,000 miles it had just passed another MoT.

• The Hyundai ix20 offers superior comfort due to its more generously padded seats and extended front seat bases compared to a rival model.
• A 2012 ix20 proved reliable over seven years and 70,000 miles, with only one warranty claim and original brake components.
• The Hyundai ix20 provides a pleasant and engaging driving experience, making it enjoyable for various journeys.
• The Hyundai ix20 is equipped with a selection of engines that deliver impressive fuel economy and performance.
• The Hyundai ix20 features a generously proportioned interior, providing ample room for occupants and luggage.