Used Mitsubishi Carisma review and buying guide (1995 to 2004): which one to buy and what to check

Which used Mitsubishi Carisma should you buy?

The Carisma to buy is one whose fuel history you can prove. The 1.8 GDI direct-injection petrol, on 1997 to 2004 cars, was built for super unleaded, and run on ordinary 95 RON it carbons up until it starts misbehaving around 60,000 miles and can end in engine failure. That makes a GDI with receipts for super unleaded a fair bet and one without them a gamble that isn't worth taking.

Summer 1999 brought the facelift with the beak-shaped nose, and the 1,870cc DI-D diesel joined the range in March 2002. Beyond the GDI's carbon problem there's too little to go on to favour one year over another, so choose the individual car on its condition, proof of the fuel pump recall work and how it drives rather than on its age or facelift.

Which Carisma engines and gearboxes are the safe choices?

The 1.8 GDI is the engine to approach with care, and the fuel it's had decides whether it's worth buying. It was designed for 97 to 99 RON super unleaded; on 95 RON, carbon builds up in the inlet and combustion chambers until it runs badly at around 60,000 miles, and it can go on to fail completely. A decoke can clear the carbon, but don't take one on without a super unleaded history.

Looked after properly, the GDI gives either decent economy or strong pace, though not both at once. The 1,870cc DI-D diesel from March 2002 is the slower car and isn't much thriftier than a GDI, so it's not worth hunting down as a way round the petrol's fuel worries. There's too little on the Carisma's gearboxes to steer you towards one or away from another.

What should you check when viewing a used Carisma?

Use your nose on an early car: a petrol smell points to the plastic ring holding the fuel pump cap inside the tank, which can shatter. Early Carismas were recalled for it, but the fix didn't reach every car, so ask for proof the work's been done. On a 1.8 GDI, let it idle from cold, then drive gently at low revs: a hunting idle, stalling, surging, misfiring or a lit engine management light all mean carbon build-up.

Look at the front tyres for uneven wear and the wheels for kerb scuffs. Kerbing can damage the steering, and cars often left the factory with too much toe-in, so ask whether the alignment's been checked. Peer behind the front wheels too: the driveshaft gaiters can leak grease, and a spray of it on the suspension gives the game away.

Open each front door and look where the side window frame is welded on, because those welds are flimsy and you'll want to see they're intact and the frame doesn't move. Ex-fleet cars can have been driven hard, so check the history for a company first owner and match the wear on the pedals, seat and steering wheel against the mileage.

Paste the advert into the free check and it runs these against the listing, the MOT history and the DVLA record before you travel.