Used Chevrolet Captiva review and buying guide (2007 to 2015): which one to buy and what to check

Which used Chevrolet Captiva should you buy?

No single year of the Captiva (2007 to 2015) stands out as the safer buy, because there are no known faults logged against it and the rest of the evidence is a handful of one-owner reports. That's a thin file, not a clean bill of health, so you're choosing a car on its own history and condition rather than on its model year.

Whatever the year, make sure both recalls were carried out. One swapped the brake fluid after the wrong type went in when the cars were built, which could corrode the ABS and stop it working. The other fixed a fuel hose on the 2.0 diesel that could leak and bring the car to a sudden halt. Don't buy one without proof of each.

The 2.4 petrol is an old design and it feels it, and the Captiva's slow enough that overtaking needs real care. Several of the owners' reports concern the diesels, and one 2013 car wrecked its engine at 63,000 miles, but there are so few reports overall that the petrol's quieter record isn't evidence it's any sounder.

Which Captiva engines and gearboxes are the safe choices?

None of the Captiva's engines can be called a proven safe choice, since there are no known faults or service intervals on record for it. The worst story is a 2013 Captiva, engine not stated, whose big end cap bolt worked loose at 63,000 miles and sent the conrod through the block despite yearly servicing, while a 2013 Vauxhall Antara 2.2 diesel, the Captiva's twin, also failed outright.

The 2.0 diesel was the one recalled for a fuel hose that could leak, so check that work's been done. One owner reported diesel particulate filter regeneration trouble on the diesels. On some 2009 diesel automatics, the ESP lights came on and the throttle stopped responding; a dealer traced it to the throttle pedal sensor, but the problem could return after that was replaced and rewired.

Gearboxes have their own reports. A 2012 2.2 diesel manual had its gearbox fail, a 2011 2.2 automatic's gearbox went wrong, and a 2013 car's clutch and dual mass flywheel gave up at just 8,500 miles, and the owner paid £2,100 to have them replaced. Any gearbox that isn't smooth and quiet on the drive isn't one to gamble on.

The four-wheel-drive system is worth a close look too. Two Antara owners had the transfer box fail, and one of those failures was put down to a single tyre being more worn than the other three. Separately, a 2012 Antara's gearbox main bearing went at 50,000 miles, and it needed a new gearbox, clutch and flywheel.

What should you check when viewing a used Captiva?

Hear the engine start from cold and pull under load, and don't buy one with any knock from low down, since one 2013 car's big end cap bolt came loose and wrecked its engine. Look under the car for oil on the sumps: a 2014 Antara's leaked at 22,900 miles and its owner paid £593.64 to have both resealed. Check the coolant for oil as well, because one owner's oil pump failed and sent oil into the cooling system.

On the test drive, feel for clutch slip or judder and listen for whine or clunks from the gearbox and transfer box. Make sure all four tyres are the same size with similar wear, since uneven tyres got the blame for one transfer box failure. Watch for an ESP light or a hesitant throttle on a 2009 diesel automatic, and check the brakes don't drag, as one 2011 owner had them stick on.

Look around the tailgate handle and number plate light, where the assembly can rub through the paint and let rust start. Compare the mileage with old MOT certificates and service stamps, because one 2009 car's mileometer twice dropped back from over 30,000 miles to much lower readings. Try the satnav, which failed twice on one 2012 car, and ask for paperwork showing both the brake fluid and fuel hose recalls were done.

Paste the advert into the free check and it runs these against the listing, the MOT history and the DVLA record before you travel.

What does a used Chevrolet Captiva cost to run?